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StudioSuits

STUDIOSUITS — CAPTURED IN FULL, Aug 16, 2026

Source: 15 owner-supplied account order pages (studiosuits.com/account/orders/...). Complete: every order reconciles line items to subtotal and subtotal+shipping to total, with ZERO discrepancies.

THE WORKBOOK HELD NO STUDIOSUITS RECORD OF ANY KIND BEFORE TODAY. Not a partial capture — a completely missing brand.

HEADLINE

15 orders · 39 garments · $3,389 subtotal + $201 shipping = $3,590 total · plus $139 of separately-booked surcharges

28 SHIRTS · 6 trousers · 3 jackets · 2 waistcoats. Average $83 per garment.

StudioSuits is now the LARGEST SHIRT SOURCE IN THE WARDROBE BY UNIT COUNT — 28 against Proper Cloth 6 (9 orders) and Charles Tyrwhitt 59 pieces across 13 orders.

ORDERS

*** THE SHIRT PROFILE — 28 GARMENTS, ONE UNCHANGED SPEC ***

CONSTANT ACROSS ALL 28 SHIRTS AND ALL 14 MONTHS: collar 15.5 · chest 42.5 · waist 35.5 · bottom 39.5 · shoulder 17.5.

THE ONLY FIELD THAT EVER MOVED IS FRONT LENGTH: 25.5 (May 2025) -> 30 (Jun-Jul 2025) -> 28.5 (Dec 2025).

LONG vs SHORT SLEEVE is set per garment, not per profile: 25 = long sleeve (cuff 8.75, bicep 15.5); 8.5 = short sleeve (cuff 13.5, bicep 15).

*** AND THE PROFILE IS ALMOST EXACTLY THE SETTLED SPEC ***

THE CHEST MATCHES THE SPEC TO ONE TENTH OF AN INCH. 42.5 against 42.4. He has been ordering StudioSuits at the merino chest since MAY 2025 — ten months before the merino shirt that settled the spec was even delivered (Mar 2026).

The whole profile sits 0.1 to 0.7 in above the spec — consistently a shade fuller, never tighter, and never by more than the Proper Cloth sewing tolerance of +/-0.25 on two of the five fields.

CONSEQUENCE: StudioSuits is not an outlier to be corrected. It is INDEPENDENT CORROBORATION of the settled shirt spec, from 28 garments and a different maker. The workbook has never had a second source on the shirt block until now.

THE SHOULDER MATTERS MOST. 17.5 sits between the merino 17.1 and the failed 18.00 cohort — and it is the ONLY shirt shoulder in the workbook in that gap. Whether these fit is the missing evidence for the whole shoulder question. NO WEAR VERDICT IS RECORDED FOR ANY OF THE 28.

*** THE TROUSER PROFILE — "dress pants good at 155" ***

The profile name states the weight it was built at: 155 lb. Cross-reference the Weight & Fit Timeline tab.

WAIST 31.5 AND OUTSEAM 39 NEVER MOVED across 9 months. Everything else drifted and then partly came back.

*** THIS CLOSES THE BIGGEST GAP ON THE MTM SPEC SHEET ***

That sheet states: "FINISHED GARMENT seat and thigh. Only the BODY figures are verified... If Luxire asks for garment seat/thigh the honest answer is that we do not have it." And for Suitsupply: "SEAT NOT PUBLISHED — the governing dimension still has no finished number."

STUDIOSUITS PUBLISHES BOTH. Hip Width 36-38 and Thigh Width 22-23.25, on four trousers, with dates.

BASIS IS NOT STATED ON THE PAGE AND MUST BE CONFIRMED. Against the verified BODY figures (waist 31 at the hip bones, seat 35, thigh 19) these read as GARMENT numbers with ease: waist +0.5, hip +1 to +3, thigh +3 to +4.25. But StudioSuits labels one field "Waist CIRCUMFERENCE" and the rest "Width", which is the same mixed-convention trap found today at Suitsupply, Proper Cloth and Apposta. DO NOT hand these to a maker until the basis is confirmed.

LEG OPENING 12.5 -> 13.0 brackets the MTM Spec Sheet's VERIFIED target of 13.5 from below. Both StudioSuits values are NARROWER than the stated preference.

FRONT RISE 10 then 9.5 across all later orders. The Spec Sheet records front rise 9-10 as VERIFIED and the Suitsupply reference reads 8.6. StudioSuits sits INSIDE the 9-10 band on all four trousers — independent support for the Spec Sheet figure and against the Suitsupply 8.6 being typical.

*** THE JACKET PROFILE — AND A DOCUMENTED SHOULDER NARROWING ***

THE SHOULDER WENT 18 -> 18 -> 17 ON DEC 29, 2025. That is a deliberate 1 in narrowing, and it is the SAME CORRECTION the rest of the wardrobe was making at the same time.

TIMING: the Suitsupply Plano fitting was on or before Nov 7, 2025 and produced a 17.13 in jacket shoulder. The StudioSuits jacket shoulder dropped to 17 on Dec 29, 2025 — SEVEN WEEKS LATER. This looks like the Plano number being applied at a second maker.

IT IS ALSO THE ONLY PLACE IN THE WORKBOOK WHERE THE 18-TO-17 CORRECTION WAS ACTUALLY EXECUTED ON AN ORDER. Black Lapel shirt and overcoat still run 18.00; Oliver Wicks queued -1 cm and never applied it; Apposta still holds 18. StudioSuits did it.

Sleeve length moved with it: 23.75 -> 24.5 (+0.75) on the same order. A narrower shoulder needs a longer sleeve to reach the same wrist — internally consistent, and evidence the change was considered rather than accidental.

JACKET CHEST 39 vs the Suitsupply finished 40.0. StudioSuits jackets are cut 1 in tighter in the chest than the Suitsupply reference.

*** THE WAISTCOAT PROFILE ***

Vest length 26 -> 27, stomach 33 -> 32.5 three weeks apart. Chest held at 38.

Suitsupply waistcoat for comparison: chest 38.8 circ, waist 35.6 circ. StudioSuits 38 / 32.5-33 is TIGHTER in both — notably 2.6-3.1 in tighter at the stomach.

*** TWO HIDDEN SUITS — THE ORDER NUMBERS DISGUISE THEM ***

REDA BLACK PURE WOOL 3-PIECE, assembled across TWO orders four months apart:

458152 (Jun 30 2025) jacket $365 + pants $259 · 475824 (Oct 14 2025) waistcoat $195. Same fabric, same Purple lining ($15), same Horn Royal Black buttons ($7). TOTAL $819 + shipping.

BLUE VELVET 2-PIECE, split across two orders SEVENTY-ONE MINUTES APART on the same day:

473320 (4:14 pm) tuxedo jacket $257 · 473325 (5:25 pm) waistcoat $120. Both Electric Blue lining ($15). BOTH SHIPPED ON THE SAME DHL TRACKING NUMBER 1132156922 — proof they are one garment set. TOTAL $377 + shipping.

This is the same pattern the workbook already documents at Suitsupply, where the Purple Wool Silk Linen suit was bought as jacket and trousers on two separate orders a month apart. Add these to the Fabric Groups tab.

*** THE $139 OF "OTHER CHARGES" ***

457579 (Jun 26 2025) — Other Charges, 40 units @ $1 = $40. No garment, no shipping, no comment.

458780 (Jul 4 2025) — Other Charges, 99 units @ $1 = $99, with the comment "Order 458152".

The $99 is EXPLICITLY tied to the Reda Black Wool suit. StudioSuits appears to bill upcharges as a separate $1-unit line, sometimes on a separate order entirely.

CONSEQUENCE FOR COSTING: the true landed cost of the Reda Black suit is $624 + $99 = $723 before shipping, not $624. The $40 on 457579 is unattributed — it most likely belongs to 456867 (placed 4 days earlier) or 457817 (2 days later), but nothing on the page says so. RECORDED AS UNATTRIBUTED.

*** WHAT IS NOT KNOWN — DO NOT FILL THESE IN BY INFERENCE ***

1. NO WEAR OR FIT VERDICT EXISTS FOR ANY OF THE 39 GARMENTS. 28 shirts at shoulder 17.5 and not one word on whether they fit. This is the single largest untapped fit signal in the workbook.

2. BASIS UNCONFIRMED on every StudioSuits field — body vs garment, flat vs circumference. The site has a "Suit Sizing" help page and a "Cm to Inches Converter"; neither has been read.

3. FABRIC COMPOSITION unknown for Filafil Poplene and Stretch Poplene — the two most-repeated shirt fabrics. Stretch content matters given the documented 2-4% elastane rule on denim.

4. SHRINKAGE UNKNOWN, and these are washable cotton shirts. Per the MTM Spec Sheet principle established Aug 15, every figure above is AS-CUT and may not describe the garment as worn.

5. The 486081 order (9 shirts, Dec 30 2025) has ONE item — European Sapphire Blue Linen at $71 — priced nearly double the poplenes. Not investigated.

6. Two items now read "Sold out" (Air Blue Stretch Poplene, European Pale Blue Linen, European Orchid Purple Linen) — they cannot be reordered.

NOT YET ADDED to the Orders tab, Garment Inventory or Shirt Inventory. Held deliberately: 39 garments is a large insertion and the basis question should be settled first so the rows carry correct labels rather than being corrected later.

*** WEAR VERDICT — OWNER, Aug 16, 2026. FIRST FIT RECORD FOR ALL 28 SHIRTS. ***

Owner: "yes, i wear those shirts a lot ... they run a little bit LONGER than the others despite having the same length measurement. I sometimes have to leave the bottom button undone because of the length, because it falls across the absolute widest part of my hips ... the changes I would make really dont involve the shoulder, but I would either shorten them and/or widen the opening at the bottom."

*** FINDING 1 — THE SHOULDER AT 17.5 IS CONFIRMED GOOD. THIS IS THE BIGGEST RESULT. ***

28 shirts worn heavily at shoulder 17.5, and the owner explicitly excludes the shoulder from the changes he would make.

17.5 was the ONLY shirt shoulder in the workbook sitting between the merino 17.1 (fits) and the failed 18.00 cohort. That gap is now filled with a WORN, HEAVY-USE verdict rather than an inference.

CONSEQUENCE — THE WEARABLE SHOULDER BAND IS 17.1 TO AT LEAST 17.5, PROVEN ON GARMENTS. Not a single point. Anything inside it is safe; the question was never as tight as this workbook has treated it.

CONSEQUENCE FOR APPOSTA: the reorder guidance was to pull 18 down to about 17.2-17.5. 17.5 is now PROVEN on 28 garments, so that is the target to use — the conservative end of the range, not the aggressive end. Do not chase 17.1.

CONSEQUENCE FOR BLACK LAPEL: the 18.00 DO NOT ORDER verdict still stands untouched — 18.00 is above 17.5 and nothing here vindicates it. But the reasoning is now cleaner: the demonstrated ceiling is 17.5, not 17.1.

*** FINDING 2 — "SAME LENGTH MEASUREMENT" IS AN ILLUSION. DIFFERENT FIELDS. ***

StudioSuits measures FRONT LENGTH. Proper Cloth measures BACK LENGTH. They are not the same dimension and must never be compared directly.

THIS EXPLAINS THE OWNER OBSERVATION EXACTLY. On a shirt with a dropped or rounded back hem the back is longer than the front. A StudioSuits garment with a 30 in FRONT length can easily carry a 32-33 in BACK length — genuinely longer on the body than a Proper Cloth measured at 31 on the BACK, despite the numbers looking almost identical.

The owner felt a real difference that the paper denied. The paper was wrong, because the paper was comparing two different measurements.

FIFTH MEASURING-POINT ERROR FOUND TODAY — after Suitsupply upper leg, Proper Cloth yoke, Proper Cloth midsection, and the Apposta chest/waist mix. The pattern is now beyond doubt: NEVER compare a field across brands on the strength of its name.

*** FINDING 3 — A FAILURE MODE THE WORKBOOK HAS NEVER RECORDED: THE HEM CATCHES THE HIP ***

The hem lands across the widest part of the hip, so the bottom button has to be left undone. That is an INTERACTION of two fields, not a fault in either one alone.

Too LONG -> the hem descends to the widest point of the hip instead of stopping above it.

Too NARROW AT THE HEM -> at that widest point, 39.5 in of circumference is not enough.

Shorten it and the hem lands higher, where less width is needed. Widen it and it clears at the same height. EITHER lever works, which is exactly what the owner said. Both is safest.

*** AND HERE IS THE PART THAT MATTERS FOR EVERY FUTURE SHIRT ORDER ***

THE SETTLED SHIRT SPEC CARRIES A HEM OF 38.8, WHICH IS NARROWER THAN THE ONE ALREADY FAILING. Ordering the spec verbatim at a new maker would make this problem WORSE, not better.

THE SPEC IS THEREFORE NOT COMPLETE. It is correct on chest, waist, collar, shoulder and sleeve — all confirmed twice over today — but its BOTTOM WIDTH of 19.4 flat / 38.8 circ is now contradicted by wear evidence from 28 garments. See the correction added to the MTM SPEC SHEET.

WHY THIS WAS NEVER CAUGHT: the merino shirt is the reference and it fits — but "fits" was recorded on chest and shoulder. Nobody asked about the hem. It is possible the merino ALSO catches and it was never mentioned. WORTH ASKING DIRECTLY.

*** THE TEST HE HAS ALREADY RUN WITHOUT REALISING IT ***

Front length went 25.5 (May 2025) -> 30 (Jun-Jul 2025) -> 28.5 (Dec 30, 2025). The nine shirts on order 486081 are 1.5 IN SHORTER than the nineteen before them.

SO BOTH LENGTHS ARE IN THE WARDROBE RIGHT NOW. Compare a Dec 2025 shirt (28.5) against a Jun-Jul 2025 shirt (30) and the answer arrives free: if 28.5 clears the hip, shortening alone is the fix and the hem can stay at 39.5. If 28.5 still catches, the hem must be widened regardless of length.

THAT IS THE CHEAPEST OPEN QUESTION IN THE ENTIRE PROJECT — no measuring, no maker, no order. Put on one of each.

NOTE: the 25.5 on the May 2025 order was almost certainly a different intent — that order was mostly short-sleeve and half-sleeve linen, likely untucked casual. Do not read 25.5 as a failed experiment in the same series.

*** REVISED CHANGE LIST FOR THE NEXT STUDIOSUITS ORDER ***

SHOULDER 17.5 LEAVE ALONE. Owner-excluded, proven across 28 garments.

CHEST 42.5 LEAVE ALONE. Within 0.1 of the settled spec.

WAIST 35.5 Leave. 0.5 above spec, no complaint recorded.

FRONT LENGTH SHORTEN. 28.5 is already ordered and in the wardrobe — verify it before choosing a number. If it still catches, go to 27.5-28.

BOTTOM 39.5 WIDEN. Direction is certain, size is not. 40.5-41 is the sensible first step; 42.2 exists on the Jan 2025 Proper Cloth shirt and is a known-tolerable upper reference.

DO BOTH ONE AT A TIME IF POSSIBLE. Changing length and hem together on the same order removes the ability to tell which one fixed it — the same error this workbook made with the Feb 18 Suitsupply trouser revision.

OPEN QUESTIONS CREATED BY THIS VERDICT

1. Does the merino AC2024242 also catch at the hip? Its hem is NARROWER. Never asked. If it does, the spec needs correcting at source.

2. Do the Dec 2025 shirts at 28.5 front length clear the hip? Both lengths are owned. One try-on settles it.

3. What is the actual BACK length of a StudioSuits shirt? Unknown — only the front is published. One tape measure answers it and converts the whole brand onto the Proper Cloth convention.

4. Is the Apposta "length 30" a front or a back measurement? Still unknown, and it now matters — that shirt is also a candidate for the same problem.

*** VELVET RUNS SMALL — A NEW FABRIC RULE. Owner, Aug 16, 2026. ***

Owner: "I had to have those velvet jackets taken out around the waist and the bottom. it is almost like every single velvet jacket I have is smaller than the wool jacket ... it is across brands."

*** THE CONTROLLED EXPERIMENT — HE RAN IT WITHOUT MEANING TO ***

Two StudioSuits jackets, SAME MAKER, ordered to the IDENTICAL profile, three months apart:

EVERY NUMBER IS IDENTICAL. Same maker removes the measuring-convention problem. Same numbers remove the spec problem. THE ONLY VARIABLE IS THE FABRIC.

This is the cleanest controlled comparison anywhere in this workbook. Nothing else in the project isolates a single variable this well.

*** HE ALREADY COMPENSATED ONCE — AND IT WAS NOT ENOUGH ***

485932   Dec 29 2025   Black VELVET   39   17   35.5   30.75   24.5   15   Midsection already +0.5 over the wool. STILL required letting out.

The Dec 2025 velvet jacket was ordered at midsection 35.5 against the wool 35.0 — a deliberate +0.5 velvet allowance. The owner reports EVERY velvet jacket still needed taking out.

THEREFORE THE REQUIRED ALLOWANCE IS GREATER THAN +0.5 IN AT THE WAIST. That is a measured lower bound, not a guess.

*** THE VESTS CORROBORATE IT INDEPENDENTLY ***

Same chest. The VELVET was ordered 0.5 in LOOSER at the stomach than the wool that followed it three weeks later.

So a velvet allowance was ALREADY being applied at the vest in Sep-Oct 2025, before the jacket problem was articulated. The behaviour predates the diagnosis.

OPEN: no fit verdict exists for either waistcoat. If the velvet vest at 33 fits and the wool at 32.5 fits, +0.5 is the correct vest allowance and the jacket needs more. ASK.

*** IT IS GENUINELY CROSS-BRAND — THERE IS A THIRD VELVET GARMENT ***

HANGRR Fuji Purple Velvet Blazer, order HNG1733063, May 9 2026, $332.93. The Alterations tab already records it: "Arms far too tight as delivered. NOT yet altered."

Three velvet jackets. Two brands. All three too small. Every wool equivalent from the same makers fits.

*** THIS CHALLENGES THE EXISTING HANGRR DIAGNOSIS ***

The workbook currently explains the Hangrr velvet blazer through the FIT LADDER: "The wool suit that fits was ordered MODERN-SLIM. The velvet blazer that does not was SLIM. Those are different ladders."

That explanation is brand-internal and cannot account for StudioSuits, where no ladder was involved and the velvet was ordered to numbers identical to a wool jacket that fits.

BOTH CAN BE TRUE. The likely reading is that they COMPOUND: Hangrr SLIM took the ease out, and velvet took out more on top.

THE DISCRIMINATING TEST IS ALREADY IN THE WORKBOOK AND STILL UNANSWERED: the Hangrr Deep Purple Wool VEST was ordered SLIM on the SAME order as the velvet blazer. If that wool vest fits, SLIM alone is not the culprit and fabric carries the weight. The Alterations tab flags this and nobody has checked it.

*** WHY VELVET WOULD RUN SMALL — MECHANISM, HYPOTHESIS NOT FACT ***

1. PILE OCCUPIES MEASURED SPACE IT DOES NOT GIVE BACK. Velvet has a raised pile. A garment measured flat across the outside includes the pile depth on BOTH panels, but that depth is fabric, not wearing room. At roughly 1/8 in of pile per face that is about 0.5 in of circumference measured but not available — which matches the +0.5 the owner already applied and found insufficient.

2. VELVET HAS ALMOST NO RECOVERY. Wool eases, gives and can be pressed and coaxed. Velvet does not, so the same nominal measurement feels tighter in wear.

3. IT BITES WHERE THE GARMENT IS ALREADY CLOSEST TO THE BODY. That explains why the two failures look different: on the StudioSuits cut the tightest points are the waist and hem, so it failed there; on the Hangrr SLIM blazer the tightest point is the sleeve, so it failed at the bicep. Same mechanism, different location, because the cuts differ.

NONE OF THIS IS CONFIRMED. It is a mechanism that fits all three garments and predicts the right magnitude. Testable — see below.

*** ANSWERING THE OWNER QUESTION: "is it supposed to be measured the same too?" ***

MEASURED the same — YES. Same convention, same points. Nothing about velvet changes where a tape goes.

ORDERED the same — NO. The ALLOWANCE must differ. The right correction is a fabric-specific ease addition on top of an unchanged measurement, not a different measuring method.

That distinction matters when briefing a maker. Do NOT say "measure velvet differently" — say "add X inches at the waist and hem BECAUSE it is velvet."

*** THIS IS THE THIRD FABRIC-BEHAVIOUR RULE IN THE WORKBOOK ***

DENIM STRETCH — 2 to 4 percent elastane works; below 2 fails on seated thigh give; above 4 feels synthetic.

CARE CLASS — merino wool woven is dimensionally stable; Japanese cotton pique SHRANK on first wash, so as-cut specs overstate it.

VELVET / PILE — runs smaller than a flat-faced cloth at the same stated measurement. Add allowance at the closest-fitting points. <- NEW, Aug 16 2026

THE UNIFYING PRINCIPLE: a measurement is not a fit. Fabric behaviour sits between the number and the garment, and this workbook now has three separate confirmations of it.

*** WORKING RULE FOR THE NEXT VELVET ORDER — PROVISIONAL ***

WAIST / MIDSECTION add AT LEAST +0.75 in over the wool number. +0.5 was tried and proved insufficient. Consider +1.0.

BOTTOM / HEM add a similar amount. Named as a failure point alongside the waist and never separately quantified.

BICEP / SLEEVE add allowance on any SLIM-cut velvet. The Hangrr failure was at the arm.

CHEST / SHOULDER no evidence of a problem. Leave at the wool numbers.

ALTERATION NOTE velvet is harder to let out cleanly than wool — the nap shows old seam lines. Ordering it right first time is worth more here than on a wool garment.

*** THE TEST THAT CONVERTS ALL OF THIS FROM THEORY TO NUMBERS ***

Lay the Blue Velvet Tuxedo and the Reda Black Wool jacket flat, side by side, and measure the waist and hem on both. They were ORDERED to identical numbers, so any difference is what velvet actually costs.

Then measure the velvet jacket AS ALTERED. The difference between as-ordered and as-altered is the exact allowance to add on the next order.

Two garments, one tape, and the rule stops being provisional. Same method already recommended for the Hangrr sleeves on the Alterations tab.

*** TWO CONFOUNDS DISCLOSED — THEY OVERTURN MY HEM CONCLUSION. Owner, Aug 16, 2026. ***

Owner: "I WASH and DRY all the studiosuits stuff ... the suit supply stuff has never been dried, only washed in cold water. The studiosuits stuff, at least the cotton stuff, is washed in cold water and DRIED in the drier. also ... the studiosuits shirts are about the only thing i wear UNTUCKED. the other things dont catch because they are mostly TUCKED IN."

*** WITHDRAWN — "THE SETTLED SHIRT SPEC HEM IS TOO NARROW" ***

One turn ago I concluded: StudioSuits 39.5 catches, the spec is 38.8, therefore the spec hem is contradicted and must be widened. THAT CONCLUSION IS UNSAFE AND IS WITHDRAWN.

It compared a TUMBLE-DRIED COTTON shirt worn UNTUCKED against a COLD-WASH-ONLY MERINO shirt worn TUCKED. Two uncontrolled variables, either of which explains the difference on its own.

CONFOUND 1 — CARE. StudioSuits cotton is washed cold AND TUMBLE DRIED, the most aggressive care regime in the wardrobe. The merino is cold-wash-only and dimensionally stable across three shirts. 39.5 is an AS-CUT figure for a garment that has been through a dryer many times; 38.8 is as-cut AND as-worn.

CONFOUND 2 — WEAR MODE. The StudioSuits shirts are the ONLY shirts worn UNTUCKED. A tucked hem is never asked to clear the hip. The other shirts do not "pass" the test — THEY ARE NEVER GIVEN IT.

WHAT DRYING WOULD DO — ILLUSTRATIVE, NOT MEASURED:

AT ONLY 2 PERCENT SHRINKAGE THE STUDIOSUITS HEM FALLS TO 38.7 — BELOW the spec hem of 38.8. At 3 percent it is 38.3.

So the shirt that catches may well be NARROWER at the hem than the spec, not wider. The entire basis of my conclusion inverts. These percentages are illustrative of a plausible range for tumble-dried cotton shirting; NOTHING HERE IS MEASURED.

*** PROPER CLOTH PUBLISHES THE ANSWER, AND IT MATCHES THE OWNER DIAGNOSIS EXACTLY ***

From their fit guidance, verified Aug 16 2026: an untucked casual shirt wants a MIDSECTION at least 0.5 in BIGGER than a slim tucked dress shirt, and untucked shirts run 1.5 to 2.5 in SHORTER in back length than tucked ones.

That is precisely the two-lever fix the owner named unprompted — shorten and/or widen.

AND HE HAS ALREADY MADE THE FIRST MOVE: front length 30 -> 28.5 on the Dec 2025 order is a 1.5 in reduction, sitting exactly at the BOTTOM of the recommended untucked range. If it still catches, the guidance says there are another 1.0 in of shortening available before the range is exhausted.

*** THE ROOT CAUSE, RESTATED ***

The StudioSuits shirts are not evidence that the shirt spec is wrong. They are TUCKED-SHIRT NUMBERS BEING WORN UNTUCKED, in a fabric that shrinks, under the harshest care in the wardrobe.

THE SPEC IS FOR TUCKED SHIRTS AND REMAINS CORRECT FOR THEM. What the workbook lacks is a SECOND, separate spec for untucked wear.

*** TWO SHIRT SPECS ARE NEEDED, NOT ONE ***

TUCKED — the settled spec, unchanged: chest 21.2 flat / collar 15.4 / yoke 17.1 / midsection 17.5 / bottom 19.4 / back length 31.0. Confirmed on the merino.

UNTUCKED — a derived variant, NOT yet validated: midsection +0.5 or more, back length 1.5 to 2.5 in shorter, hem widened to clear the hip. Add a shrinkage allowance on top for any fabric that will be tumble dried.

This distinction has never existed in the workbook. Every shirt figure recorded to date has been treated as one interchangeable set.

*** WHAT ELSE THIS DAMAGES — I HAVE TO WALK TWO MORE CLAIMS BACK ***

1. "STUDIOSUITS INDEPENDENTLY CORROBORATES THE SPEC — chest 42.5 vs 42.4." WEAKER THAN I SAID. That is a match of ORDERED numbers. As worn, the dried StudioSuits chest is smaller than 42.5 while the merino sits at 42.4. Both fit. The real finding is that the wearable chest range is WIDER ON THE TIGHT SIDE than the spec implies — which agrees with the Apposta shirt at 41.0 as-cut also being wearable.

2. "THE SHOULDER AT 17.5 IS CONFIRMED GOOD." STILL TRUE BUT MISLABELLED. 17.5 is what was ORDERED. After repeated drying the worn shoulder is lower — around 17.0-17.3 at 1-3 percent. So the proven-good shoulder is nearer 17.2 than 17.5, which lands almost exactly on the Suitsupply 17.13 and the merino 17.1 rather than extending the band upward.

CONSEQUENCE FOR APPOSTA: my advice to target 17.5 because "17.5 is proven" was built on an as-cut number. If Apposta is NOT tumble dried, ordering 17.5 there gives a genuinely wider shoulder than the StudioSuits shirts wear at. TARGET 17.2-17.3 INSTEAD — and first ask whether the Apposta shirt gets dried.

*** WHAT IS UNAFFECTED ***

THE VELVET FINDING STANDS ENTIRELY. Jackets are not washed or dried, and the controlled pair (473320 velvet vs 458152 wool) shared a maker, a profile and a care regime. Fabric was the only variable and remains so.

The order, price and date capture is unaffected — those are transaction facts.

*** THE OPEN TENSION I CANNOT RESOLVE ***

Drying SHORTENS a shirt. Yet the owner reports the StudioSuits shirts wear LONGER than the others. Those pull in opposite directions.

The front-length-versus-back-length explanation must therefore be doing MORE work than I credited: the back-hem drop has to be large enough to overcome real shrinkage and still read as longer. That makes measuring the actual BACK length of a StudioSuits shirt more valuable, not less.

ALTERNATIVE WORTH TESTING: these may barely shrink at all. If StudioSuits pre-shrinks its cotton, the whole shrinkage analysis above collapses and the hem numbers can be taken at face value. UNKNOWN — the site has a "Suit Sizing" help page that has never been read.

*** THE MEASUREMENT THAT SETTLES EVERYTHING ABOVE ***

Lay ONE StudioSuits shirt flat and measure: chest, hem, shoulder, FRONT length and BACK length.

Against the as-cut figures on this tab that gives the true shrinkage rate for tumble-dried StudioSuits cotton — one number that then corrects every StudioSuits figure in this workbook at once.

It simultaneously answers the front-vs-back length question and tells us whether the hem really is narrower than the spec. One garment, one tape, four minutes.

Use a Jun-Jul 2025 shirt (front length 30) — the most-washed and most-dried cohort, so the worst case.

New Brands — Alex Crane etc

ALEX CRANE · APPOSTA · SUNSPEL — searched Aug 15, 2026. ALL THREE CONCLUSIONS BELOW WERE OVERTURNED ON Aug 16, 2026 — see the corrections further down this tab. Read the corrections first.

*** ALEX CRANE — CONFIRMED PURCHASES, AND NOT ONE ORDER EMAIL EXISTS ***

ZERO order confirmations in the mailbox. The purchases were found in BANK ALERT emails from Empower:

THIS VALIDATES THE CARD-STATEMENT ROUTE THE WORKBOOK HAS BEEN PROPOSING ALL DAY.

The SEARCH METHOD tab lists card statements as the way to reach brands with no email trail — Ferragamo, Prada,

Armani, Boss. Alex Crane is the PROOF OF CONCEPT: a real brand, $652 of real spend, entirely invisible to every

order-email search, surfaced only through a bank alert.

ACTION: search the Empower and Aura alert emails systematically for merchant names. That is now a PRIMARY method,

not a fallback. Every uncaptured brand should be run through it.

WHAT IS KNOWN ABOUT THE PRODUCTS — indirect only, NOT purchased-confirmed

- Shop.app (Shopify) recommendation emails list Alex Crane items he had engaged with: KNIT OLA SHIRT $158.00 and

ALTA SHORTS in NIGHT $148.00. Those are viewed/carted items, NOT confirmed purchases.

- A Nordstrom abandoned-bag email (Jul 7, 2025) shows ALEX CRANE SUN LINEN T-SHIRT, SIZE MEDIUM, $68.

SIZE MEDIUM IS NOTEWORTHY — by Jul 2025 his alpha size was already S. Either Alex Crane runs small, or this was

a mis-sized bag item, or it was never bought. DO NOT record M as his Alex Crane size on this evidence.

- Alex Crane is a LINEN brand (Brooklyn, NY). Products seen: Sun Linen T-Shirt, Long Sleeve Sun Tee, Knit Ola

Shirt, Alta Shorts, Kite Jacket (linen suiting). Fits the documented summer-linen direction exactly.

- $336 and $316 are both multi-item sized against $68-158 unit prices. Probably 2-3 pieces each.

STILL NEEDED ON ALEX CRANE: itemisation. Routes — (1) alexcrane.co account order history, (2) the Yahoo address,

(3) Shop.app order history, since Shop Cash emails indicate he uses Shop Pay.

*** SUPERSEDED Aug 16, 2026 — SUNSPEL IS A CONFIRMED CUSTOMER. Order US-73202, 6 Jul 2025, $203, fulfilled. The "no purchase" reasoning below is retained only to show why it failed. ***

Sunspel emails constantly — 10+ campaigns Jul-Aug 2026 alone, most recent Aug 16, 2026 (yesterday).

EVERY SINGLE ONE carries: "10% off your FIRST ORDER with code WELCOME10 at checkout."

A brand does not offer a first-order discount to an existing customer. That is a strong negative signal.

SUPERSEDED — CONCLUSION: he is on the Sunspel list but has almost certainly NEVER ORDERED. Recorded as PROSPECT, not owner. [WRONG. He ordered 6 Jul 2025 and simply never used the WELCOME10 code.]

CAVEAT: not proof. Automated welcome-flow footers sometimes persist. But combined with zero order emails and zero

bank alerts naming Sunspel, the reading is sound.

WORTH KNOWING — Sunspel is dimensionally relevant: Supima cotton jersey tees and pique polos, and the Riviera Polo

is the Casino Royale Bond polo. Their RELAXED FIT tee is explicitly cut loose, which conflicts with his extra-slim

block. If he ever orders, size and fit model need care. WELCOME10 is live and unused.

*** SUPERSEDED Aug 16, 2026 — APPOSTA HAS A CONFIRMED ORDER. 1751558736647, 3 Jul 2025, $211.60, shipped. The "nothing found" text below is retained only to show why the search missed it. ***

No order emails, no marketing, no bank-alert hits in this mailbox. Apposta is an Italian MTM shirt maker, which

would fit the shirt-block work exactly — but there is no evidence of any relationship here.

THIS IS NOT A CONCLUSION THAT HE HAS NEVER USED THEM. Per the SEARCH METHOD tab, two channels remain unsearched:

the myers_jesse@yahoo.com address, and Apposta may simply not email. CHECK: apposta.com account, and the Yahoo inbox.

If he HAS ordered from Apposta, their order records would carry a full MTM shirt spec — high value for the spec sheet.

*** THREE CORRECTIONS — Aug 16, 2026. ALL THREE CONCLUSIONS ON THIS TAB WERE WRONG. ***

1. ALEX CRANE AMOUNTS — TRANSCRIPTION ERROR OF $600, NOW FIXED.

The table above read $36.00 and $16.00, totalling $52. The Empower alerts actually read -$336.00 (03/03) and -$316.00 (03/26), totalling $652.

The leading "3" was dropped from BOTH figures in the original transcription. The PROSE on this tab was right ($652, $336, $316); the TABLE was wrong. The two disagreed with each other for a full session and nobody caught it.

Verified verbatim from: Empower "Your daily financial monitor", Mar 5 2026 ("Purchase 0303 Sp Alex Crane Llc Brooklyn Ny ... -$336.00") and Mar 29 2026 ("Purchase 0326 Sp Alex Crane Llc Brooklyn Ny ... -$316.00").

LESSON: when a tab states a figure twice, reconcile the two before trusting either. This one was a factor of ten.

2. APPOSTA — "NOTHING FOUND" IS OVERTURNED. THERE IS A CONFIRMED ORDER.

The tab above says "APPOSTA — NOTHING FOUND ... no order emails, no marketing, no bank-alert hits." That is wrong on both counts. Apposta has emailed heavily since Mar 2025 and there is a completed purchase.

CONFIRMED ORDER — Jul 3, 2025:

Jul 3, 2025 01:21 support@apposta.com "You haven't completed your shirt order yet" (abandoned-cart prompt)

Jul 3, 2025 16:06 support@apposta.com "Confirmation of order placed" — body reads: "We have successfully received payment for the order you placed on 03/07/2025."

Jul 4, 2025 05:47 support@apposta.com "Your order is entering production"

Jul 25, 2025 support@apposta.com "Get 10% Off Your NEXT Shirt Order" — post-purchase, confirming an existing customer

Jul 29 + Aug 5 2025 Trustpilot "your recent purchase from Apposta" / "Thanks again for choosing Apposta"

WHAT THE EMAILS DO NOT CARRY: no order number, no item, no fabric, no collar, no measurements, no price, no shipping notice. The confirmation is a bare four-line acknowledgement.

SO THE ORDER IS PROVEN BUT UNITEMISED. Apposta is an Italian MTM shirtmaker (Apposta Ltd, 30 Moorgate, London; since Nov 2025 part of Camiceria Taccaliti). Their account records would carry a FULL MTM SHIRT SPEC — the single highest-value uncaptured fit record in the project.

NEXT ACTION: log in to apposta.com and pull the order. Failing that, the Empower monitor for 07/03-07/06 2025 will give the amount.

3. SUNSPEL — "ALMOST CERTAINLY NEVER ORDERED" IS OVERTURNED. HE IS A CUSTOMER.

SUPERSEDED — The tab above concludes: "he is on the Sunspel list but has almost certainly NEVER ORDERED. Recorded as PROSPECT, not owner." The reasoning was that every campaign carries a WELCOME10 first-order discount. [WRONG. He ordered 6 Jul 2025 and simply never used the WELCOME10 code.]

DISPROVED BY: noreply@email.sunspel.com, Jul 6, 2026 — subject "One Year Since Your Sunspel Purchase", body: "you made your first Sunspel purchase, and we're delighted to mark this moment with you."

An anniversary email naming a FIRST PURCHASE is direct evidence of a completed order. Implied purchase date: approximately JULY 2025.

The tab's own caveat — "not proof. Automated welcome-flow footers sometimes persist" — was the correct read, and the confident conclusion drawn over the top of it was not.

LESSON, AND IT IS THE SAME ONE AS THE EMAIL ARCHIVE GENERALLY: absence of an order email is NOT evidence of no purchase. A marketing footer is not evidence either. Only the account page or the card statement settles it.

*** THE TIMING COINCIDENCE WORTH CHECKING ***

Apposta order: Jul 3, 2025. Sunspel first purchase: approximately Jul 6, 2025 (one year before the Jul 6, 2026 anniversary email). Three days apart.

Early July 2025 looks like a concentrated shirt-buying burst. The Proper Cloth BLACK LAPEL shirt pattern is also dated Jul 1, 2025. Three shirt sources inside one week.

ACTION: pull the Empower daily financial monitors for 07/01/2025 through 07/10/2025 in full. That single window should yield the Apposta amount, the Sunspel amount, and anything else bought in that burst.

STATUS AFTER THIS SESSION:

ALEX CRANE — 2 purchases, $652 total, CONFIRMED. Contents still unknown. Needs alexcrane.co account history.

APPOSTA — 1 order, Jul 3 2025, CONFIRMED. Amount and full MTM spec unknown. Needs apposta.com account.

SUNSPEL — at least 1 purchase, approx Jul 2025, CONFIRMED. Amount, items and size unknown. Needs sunspel.com account.

All three were previously recorded as zero-order or unknown. None of them are.

*** APPOSTA ORDER CAPTURED IN FULL — Aug 16, 2026. Source: apposta.com order-status page (owner-supplied PDF). ***

ORDER NUMBER 1751558736647 (internal orderId=74386 in the page URL)

ORDER DATE 03/07/2025 = 3 JULY 2025 — DD/MM/YYYY. See date-format note below.

EST. SHIP DATE 18/07/2025 = 18 July 2025. 15 days production.

STATUS Shipped

ORDER TOTAL $211.60

PAYMENT Credit card

SHIP TO Jesse Myers, 7836 NW 131st St, Oklahoma City OK, United States

SELLER Apposta, a brand of Camiceria Giovanni Taccaliti srl (Italy). Apposta Ltd, 30 Moorgate, London.

LINE ITEMS

Shirt COTTON-BAMBOO POPLIN qty 1 $214.00

Coordinated handkerchief EUR 10 <- priced in EUROS while the rest of the order is in USD

*** THE TOTAL DOES NOT RECONCILE — $19.00 UNEXPLAINED ***

Shirt list $214.00, less the 10% first-order discount he was sent on May 11 2025 ("Jesse 10% Discount for Your First Custom-Made Shirt") = $192.60.

Order total $211.60 minus $192.60 leaves a residual of EXACTLY $19.00.

That residual is NOT the handkerchief on its own: EUR 10 converts to roughly $10.80-$11.70 at 2025 rates. Nor does a 10%-off-the-whole-basket reading work — it would require a second item of $21.11.

MOST LIKELY: handkerchief (~$11) plus shipping (~$8), or a flat shipping charge with the handkerchief comped. NOT ESTABLISHED. Do not record a shipping figure until the Empower monitor for 03/07/2025-06/07/2025 is read, which will give the actual amount charged to the card.

NOTE: it is also unconfirmed whether the 10% discount was applied at all. The $192.60 fit is clean enough to be suggestive but it is reverse-engineered, not shown on the page.

*** DATE FORMAT CONFIRMED — DD/MM/YYYY ***

The order page reads "Order Date: 03/07/2025" and the confirmation email reads "the order you placed on 03/07/2025". The email itself is TIMESTAMPED 3 July 2025.

So 03/07/2025 is 3 JULY, not 7 March. Apposta is an Italian/UK company using European date order. Any other Apposta date in this workbook must be read the same way.

*** STILL MISSING — THE MTM SPEC, WHICH IS THE WHOLE POINT ***

The line item carries a "View all details" link that is COLLAPSED on the captured page. That is where the made-to-measure shirt specification lives — collar style, cuff, fit, and the measurement set.

Apposta is a made-to-measure Italian shirtmaker. Its stored measurement profile is the highest-value uncaptured fit record in this project and sits directly alongside the Proper Cloth / Suitsupply shirt-block work done this session.

NEXT ACTION: expand "View all details" on order 1751558736647 and capture the spec. Second action: "EDIT & REORDER" on that page will likely expose the full stored profile in an editable form, which is the richer capture.

FABRIC NOTE — WITHDRAWN Aug 16, 2026. The claim that "Cotton-Bamboo Poplin is unlike anything else in the shirt inventory" and that "a bamboo blend is a first" was WRONG. Sartoro supplied THREE Ultrasoft Bamboo shirts plus bamboo trousers and jackets. See the correction block below.

BRAND STATUS UPDATED: APPOSTA — 1 order, CONFIRMED, ITEMISED, $211.60, 1 shirt + 1 handkerchief, shipped Jul 2025. Was "NOTHING FOUND" at the start of this session.

NOT YET ADDED to the Orders tab or Garment Inventory — hold until the MTM spec and the true shipping split are captured, then add as one order and one garment.

*** ACTION REQUIRED — DO NOT REORDER FROM APPOSTA UNTIL THE SIZING IS UPDATED. Owner instruction, Aug 16, 2026. ***

WHY THIS MATTERS MORE THAN IT LOOKS:

The Apposta order was placed 3 JULY 2025. Whatever measurements Apposta holds were entered on or before that date — which puts them on the OLD, SUPERSEDED shirt block, before every correction this project has since made.

Timeline that brackets it: the Black Lapel SHIRT pattern is dated 1 JULY 2025 and carries an 18.00 in shoulder — the spec this workbook has condemned as too wide. The Apposta order was placed TWO DAYS LATER.

The Suitsupply Plano fitting (on or before 7 Nov 2025), the Proper Cloth Mar 2026 shirt, the shoulder correction and the corrected ease band ALL POSTDATE the Apposta profile. None of them are reflected in it.

*** CONFIRMED BY OWNER Aug 16, 2026 — THE APPOSTA SHIRT IS AN 18 IN SHOULDER. *** This was written as a dated inference from the Jul 1 2025 Black Lapel pattern and is now owner-confirmed. The Cotton-Bamboo Poplin shirt WAS cut to the old wide-shoulder spec. Apposta holds an 18 in shoulder on file and will rebuild to it unless the profile is corrected first.

WHAT TO GIVE APPOSTA — current targets as of Aug 16, 2026. All FLAT garment inches from Proper Cloth AC2024242, the shirt confirmed to fit.

Collar around 15.4 (Ledbury and Charles Tyrwhitt both cut 15; use 15 to 15.4)

Yoke / shoulder 17.1 flat, seam to seam <- THE CRITICAL ONE. NOT 18.0. See note below.

Chest width 21.2 flat = 42.4 around preferred band 21.2 to 21.7 flat (4.4 to 5.4 in ease over a 38 in body chest)

Midsection width 17.5 flat = 35.0 around

Bottom width 19.4 flat = 38.8 around

Back length 31.0

Sleeve length 34.3 centre-back-of-collar to cuff | 25.5 shoulder-seam to cuff (DERIVED this session)

Sleeve width 7.5 flat | Cuff around 8.4

Body chest 38 in · body bicep 12 in — give these only if Apposta asks for BODY rather than GARMENT figures.

THE SHOULDER IS THE ONE TO GET RIGHT. Every shirt cut before Nov 2025 in this workbook runs an 18.00-18.31 in shoulder and every one of them is too wide. The corrected shirt target is roughly 17.8 in or NARROWER, and the Proper Cloth shirt that actually fits reads 17.1 flat seam-to-seam.

AND THE TRAP THAT CAUGHT US THREE TIMES TODAY — MEASURING POINTS.

APPOSTA FIELD DEFINITIONS ARE COMPLETELY UNREAD. Do NOT type Proper Cloth numbers into Apposta fields on the assumption that same-sounding names mean the same thing.

This session alone: Suitsupply "upper leg width" turned out to be 6 in BELOW the crotch, not at it; Proper Cloth "yoke width" turned out to BE shoulder width after the workbook had said it was not; and Proper Cloth publishes two different definitions of "midsection" on two different pages.

BEFORE ENTERING ANYTHING AT APPOSTA: (1) find out whether their fields want BODY or GARMENT figures, (2) find out whether widths are FLAT or CIRCUMFERENCE, (3) read the definition of the shoulder/yoke field specifically. Apposta publishes a "How to Get Your Shirt Measurements" guide — they emailed it on 6 Apr 2025 and it is still in the mailbox.

CHEAPEST ROUTE: Apposta already holds a profile and the order page offers "EDIT & REORDER". Open that, read the stored values in Apposta's own convention, and correct them field by field against the targets above rather than entering a fresh set blind. That sidesteps the whole convention problem — you are editing numbers that are already in their language.

ALSO UNKNOWN AND WORTH SETTLING FIRST: whether the July 2025 Cotton-Bamboo Poplin shirt actually fits. No wear or fit note exists for it anywhere in this workbook. If it is still owned, measuring it flat would show exactly what Apposta builds to and convert this from guesswork into a correction.

*** CORRECTION — BAMBOO IS NOT NEW. Owner correction, Aug 16, 2026. ***

I wrote that the Apposta Cotton-Bamboo Poplin was the first bamboo blend in the wardrobe. That is false, and this workbook already said so.

This tab now carries the SECOND correction of the same error: the "BAMBOO IS UNDER-LABELLED IN THIS WORKBOOK" block on the Garment Inventory tab is dated Aug 13, 2026 and was itself prompted by the owner asking "do I not have blue bamboo Sartoro pants?". The claim above was made three days later without checking it.

THE FULL BAMBOO HOLDING — 8 garments across 2 brands

SHIRTS — all three are Sartoro "ULTRASOFT BAMBOO", the same fabric in three colours:

White Ultrasoft Bamboo Shirt order 6751 Aug 2025 price cut off, not captured

Deep Blue Ultrasoft Bamboo Shirt order 6949 Sep 2025 $165.00

Black Ultrasoft Bamboo Shirt order 7241 Dec 2025 $123.75 (list $165, CYBER MONDAY bundle -25%)

TROUSERS:

Polo Blue Glen Plaid Bamboo Pants order 6949 $215 fabric Sartoro 255172 (inferred)

Nickel Grey Bamboo Pants order 7625 $215 fabric Sartoro 255147

JACKETS:

Polo Blue Glen Plaid Bamboo Jacket (1st) order 6964 $550 fabric 255172

Polo Blue Glen Plaid Bamboo Jacket (2nd) order 7625 $550 fabric 255172 — a reorder with different specs

APPOSTA:

Shirt Cotton-Bamboo Poplin order 1751558736647 Jul 2025 $214.00

*** WHAT THIS ACTUALLY MEANS — IT STRENGTHENS THE APPOSTA CASE RATHER THAN WEAKENING IT ***

The three Sartoro bamboo shirts are White, Deep Blue and Black — the SAME fabric bought across its colour range. That is the documented buying pattern in this workbook: fabric is the unit of decision, not colour, independently confirmed at Naked & Famous and at Ledbury. Bamboo shirting is now a THIRD instance of it.

So the Apposta Cotton-Bamboo Poplin was not an experiment. It sits inside an established, repeated fabric preference spanning shirts, trousers and jackets, and it was ordered in Jul 2025 — between the White (Aug 2025) and Deep Blue (Sep 2025) Sartoro bamboo shirts. Concurrent, not exploratory.

CONSEQUENCE FOR THE REORDER DECISION: bamboo is a proven preference, so an Apposta reorder in the same cloth is well supported on FABRIC. The open question is purely SIZING — see the action note above. Those are separable, and only one of them is blocked.

COMPARISON WORTH MAKING WHEN THE SPEC IS CAPTURED: Sartoro "Ultrasoft Bamboo" vs Apposta "Cotton-Bamboo Poplin" are not necessarily the same cloth — poplin is a weave, ultrasoft is a marketing name, and the blend ratios are unrecorded for both. Do not treat them as interchangeable without checking composition.

PROCESS NOTE FOR FUTURE SESSIONS: before asserting that anything is a FIRST in this wardrobe, grep the workbook for the term. This is the second bamboo miss and the fourth correction of the day. The workbook is now large enough that memory of it is not reliable — search it.

*** APPOSTA SHOULDER CONFIRMED AT 18 IN — owner, Aug 16, 2026. Inference closed. ***

The Apposta Cotton-Bamboo Poplin shirt (order 1751558736647, 3 Jul 2025) carries an 18 IN SHOULDER. Confirmed by the owner, not derived.

THE JULY 2025 COHORT IS NOW FOUR GARMENTS WIDE, AND EVERY ONE OF THEM IS AT 18:

Jul 1, 2025 Black Lapel SHIRT pattern 18.00 in — DO NOT ORDER flag already standing

Jul 3, 2025 APPOSTA Cotton-Bamboo Poplin 18 in — CONFIRMED TODAY

~Mar 2025 Suitsupply SHIRT, as built 18.31 in — owner: take in AT LEAST 0.5 in

May 7, 2025 Black Lapel OVERCOAT pattern 18.00 in — never rebuilt

Plus Sartoro old generation at 18 in across 9 jackets and their pants and vests.

This is no longer a scatter of separate problems. It is ONE SPEC, applied by four different makers across 2025, and it is the spec that stopped fitting.

HOW MUCH TO TAKE OUT — AND WHY I WILL NOT GIVE A SINGLE NUMBER YET

Against Proper Cloth AC2024242 (the shirt confirmed to fit, yoke 17.1 flat seam-to-seam) the reduction would be -0.9 in.

Against the owner-corrected Suitsupply shirt target (17.81 or narrower, from an 18.31 as-built) the reduction would be about -0.2 in.

THE GAP BETWEEN THOSE TWO IS ENTIRELY A MEASURING-POINT QUESTION. Apposta's shoulder definition is UNREAD. If Apposta measures over the curve of the shoulder it will read larger than Proper Cloth's flat chord for the very same garment, and -0.9 would overcorrect.

*** THE CLEAN WAY TO SETTLE IT — HE OWNS BOTH SHIRTS ***

Lay the APPOSTA Cotton-Bamboo Poplin and the PROPER CLOTH merino AC2024242 flat, side by side, and measure BOTH the same way: shoulder seam to shoulder seam, straight across the back, flat chord.

That is garment-to-garment by one method. It removes Apposta's convention, Proper Cloth's convention and the whole ease question in a single measurement, and it gives the exact number to take out — not a range.

It also answers the other open question for free: whether the Apposta shirt is actually wearable or belongs with the too-big cohort.

DO THIS BEFORE TOUCHING THE APPOSTA PROFILE. Editing their stored 18 in down by a guessed amount risks landing on the wrong side of a target that is only 0.9 in wide in total.

*** WEAR VERDICT — APPOSTA IS WEARABLE. Owner, Aug 16, 2026. ***

Owner: the Apposta shirt is WEARABLE, and NOT as big as the Suitsupply shirts.

This is the first wear/fit record of any kind for the Cotton-Bamboo Poplin shirt. Previously nothing was recorded.

THE SHOULDER WEARABILITY LADDER — now four points with verdicts attached

Proper Cloth merino AC2024242 17.1 flat, seam to seam PREFERRED — the confirmed-fitting reference

APPOSTA Cotton-Bamboo Poplin 18 (convention unread) WEARABLE — new, Aug 16 2026

Black Lapel shirt pattern 18.00 point to point DO NOT ORDER — never worn, verdict is on paper only

Suitsupply shirt, as built 18.31 TOO FULL — owner wants at least 0.5 in out

NOTE THE DISTINCTION THAT MATTERS: WEARABLE IS NOT PREFERRED. Proper Cloth 17.1 remains the target. Apposta clears the bar; it does not set it.

*** THIS RE-OPENS THE BLACK LAPEL SHIRT VERDICT. THIRD TIME. ***

Black Lapel reads 18.00 and is flagged DO NOT ORDER. Apposta reads 18 and is WORN AND WEARABLE. On the face of it those two cannot both be right.

History of this verdict in the workbook: (1) condemned by comparison against the Suitsupply JACKET figure of 17.13 — a cross-garment-class comparison, later admitted to be imperfect reasoning; (2) CHALLENGED when the Suitsupply SHIRT profile turned up at 18.31, making 18.00 look defensible; (3) challenge WITHDRAWN after the try-on showed 18.31 was too wide, so the verdict was reaffirmed at "about 17.8 or narrower".

NOW (4): a garment at 18 is confirmed wearable. The reaffirmed 17.8 ceiling does not survive that cleanly.

THE HONEST RESOLUTION IS THAT WE STILL CANNOT TELL, BECAUSE THE CONVENTIONS ARE NOT KNOWN. Apposta's shoulder definition is unread and Black Lapel's 18.00 is a derived PATTERN value, not a measured garment. Two garments can both read "18" and be materially different widths.

DO NOT lift the Black Lapel DO NOT ORDER flag on this evidence. But DO record that the case against it is now weaker than it was this morning, and that it rests on a number-to-number comparison across three unverified conventions.

*** WHAT THIS CHANGES FOR THE REORDER — THE DANGER HAS FLIPPED ***

Before this wear note, the working assumption was that Apposta was built to a failed spec and needed a large correction, potentially -0.9 in down to the Proper Cloth 17.1.

That is now the WRONG risk to optimise against. The shirt works. An aggressive correction on a wearable garment is more likely to ruin the next one than a conservative one is to repeat a mistake.

REVISED GUIDANCE: correct the Apposta shoulder MODESTLY or not at all on the first reorder. A reduction of roughly 0.25 to 0.5 in moves it toward the Proper Cloth preference without leaving the wearable band. Do NOT take out 0.9.

AND SPEND THE ADJUSTMENT BUDGET ELSEWHERE. The owner-recorded complaints against the Suitsupply shirt were shoulder, chest, waist and SLEEVE LENGTH — with sleeve called the LARGEST single error (1 to 1.5 in too long). No sleeve figure has ever been captured for Apposta. That is the more likely source of a bad next shirt than the shoulder is.

THE MEASUREMENT IS STILL WORTH TAKING, BUT ITS PURPOSE HAS CHANGED.

It is no longer needed to decide whether Apposta failed. It is needed to convert Apposta's "18" into the workbook's flat seam-to-seam convention, so that a WEARABLE reference point can finally be placed on the same scale as the PREFERRED one.

Lay the Apposta shirt and the Proper Cloth AC2024242 flat together and measure both shoulder-seam to shoulder-seam, straight across. If Apposta measures 17.1-17.4 flat, its "18" is simply a different convention and there is nothing to correct at all. If it measures near 18.0 flat, the wearable band is genuinely wider than this workbook has assumed and several verdicts need revisiting.

EITHER RESULT IS VALUABLE. That single measurement is now the highest-yield action in the shirt programme.

*** APPOSTA MEASUREMENT PROFILE CAPTURED IN FULL — Aug 16, 2026. THE GAP IS CLOSED. ***

Source: apposta.com/sp/measurement.3sp?return=list&measureId=1 — owner-supplied PDF. Profile name "goodat155". Unit: INCHES. measureId=1, so this is the first/only profile on the account.

PAGE TITLE: "Modify your measurements profile FROM A SHIRT". BASIS IS GARMENT, NOT BODY. Apposta built this by having him measure an existing shirt.

*** THE CONVENTION IS MIXED WITHIN ONE FORM — CHEST IS FLAT, WAIST IS CIRCUMFERENCE ***

chest 20.5 can only be a FLAT half-measure (x2 = 41.0 around, sane). waist 35.5 can only be a CIRCUMFERENCE (35.5 flat would mean a 71 in waist, absurd).

So Apposta mixes conventions field by field, exactly as Suitsupply and Proper Cloth do. Third brand, same trap. The "How to take the measurement" link sits beside EVERY field on that page and would settle each one definitively — it has not been read.

*** WHERE THE 18 CAME FROM — IT IS ALMOST CERTAINLY A COPY OF THE BLACK LAPEL SHIRT PATTERN ***

Black Lapel shirt pattern is dated 1 Jul 2025. The Apposta order was placed 3 Jul 2025 — two days later. The profiles line up field for field:

Three fields identical to the digit, chest matching once halved, and the whole set rounded to halves and whole numbers. This reads as a TRANSCRIPTION of the Black Lapel pattern into the Apposta form, not an independent measuring session.

THAT IS THE EXPLANATION FOR THE 18. It was never measured for Apposta. It was carried across from a pattern this workbook has flagged DO NOT ORDER.

STATUS: STRONG INFERENCE from the date proximity and the field match. NOT owner-confirmed. Ask him whether he copied the Black Lapel numbers across in July 2025.

*** THE REAL SURPRISE — THE CHEST, NOT THE SHOULDER ***

Apposta chest 41.0 around, over a 38 in body chest = +3.0 in of ease. Place that on the workbook ease ladder:

CORRECTED Aug 16, 2026 — "Apposta is the tightest shirt in the inventory" was overstated. It is the tightest AS-CUT at 41.0. But the navy pique (41.4 as-cut) SHRANK on first wash and is very likely tighter as worn. Apposta is cotton-bamboo poplin, a washable fabric, so it may have shrunk too — its 41.0 is also an AS-CUT figure. Nothing here is measured in the same state. The honest statement is that Apposta was CUT tighter than any Proper Cloth shirt.

And yet he reports it as wearable. Two possible readings, both worth testing: (a) cotton-bamboo poplin drapes or gives enough to carry an ease level that fails in a merino woven; (b) the tight-end boundary is lower than the navy pique suggested and the navy pique was disliked for a reason other than chest girth — note the workbook already warns that the Charles Tyrwhitt complaint was RANGE OF MOTION, not chest girth.

EITHER WAY THIS REVISES THE EASE BAND. The recorded band is 4.4 to 5.4 in. A garment at +3.0 is confirmed wearable, so the floor is lower than recorded — for this fabric at least.

*** REVISED REORDER GUIDANCE — THE SHOULDER IS NO LONGER THE FIRST PROBLEM ***

1. SHOULDER 18 -> reduce to about 17.2-17.5. The 0.9 gap to Proper Cloth 17.1 is now credible rather than convention noise, because the 18 is traceable to a Black Lapel pattern rather than to an Apposta measurement. Still do not take the full 0.9 in one step on a garment he wears.

2. CHEST 20.5 -> RAISE to about 21.2 flat (42.4 around) to match the merino that fits, or 21.7 (43.4) to match the preferred pique. This is the LARGEST fit gap in the profile and it points the OPPOSITE WAY to everything else. Do not shrink this shirt.

3. SLEEVE 25 -> the owner-recorded complaint against the Suitsupply shirt was that sleeves ran 1 to 1.5 in TOO LONG. Apposta 25 is already 0.5 in shorter than the derived Proper Cloth shoulder-to-cuff of 25.5. LEAVE IT ALONE. This was the field I flagged as the likely hidden problem; it is not.

4. WAIST 35.5 and NECK 15.5 -> both already sit on the Proper Cloth figures. No change.

5. LENGTH 30 vs Proper Cloth back length 31.0 -> 1 in shorter. Only relevant if it untucks; no complaint recorded.

NEXT ACTION, AND IT IS CHEAP: open the "How to take the measurement" link on the CHEST and SHOULDERS fields. Those two carry the whole reorder decision and both definitions are one click away on a page already open.

*** CORRECTION — I USED A SUPERSEDED PREFERENCE ORDER TODAY. Owner caught it, Aug 16, 2026. ***

Everywhere in today's Apposta analysis I labelled the BLACK/WHITE PIQUE at 43.4 circ as "PREFERRED" and described a 4.4-5.4 in ease BAND. Both are superseded.

THE SETTLED POSITION, from the MTM SPEC SHEET dated Aug 15, 2026:

"SUPERSEDED Aug 15, 2026 — owner prefers the MERINO WOVEN. Single spec below. DO NOT USE A BAND."

"FINAL — THE SPEC IS THE MERINO WOVEN AC2024242. SETTLED Aug 15, 2026."

Owner: "actually prefer the merino woven ... let's just use the merino woven as the spec."

The pique 21.70 is AS-CUT ONLY. That garment SHRANK on first wash, so the figure does not describe it as worn.

HOW THE ERROR HAPPENED — AND IT WAS NOT A STALE FILE

The Proper Cloth Fit Ladder tab still carried the OLD ease ladder labelling the black pique "PREFERRED". The MTM SPEC SHEET superseded it on Aug 15 but the Fit Ladder rows were never updated. I read the Fit Ladder, took the stale label, and did not reconcile it against the spec sheet — even though the SAME TAB, fifty rows lower, already says "THE PIQUES ARE NOT THE SPEC".

The stale rows on the Fit Ladder have now been rewritten so the contradiction cannot be picked up again.

WHAT ACTUALLY CHANGES IN THE APPOSTA ANALYSIS — LESS THAN IT LOOKS, AND IT POINTS THE SAME WAY

The reorder target was already the merino: raise Apposta chest from 20.5 flat to about 21.2 flat (42.4 circ). That was right and is now the SINGLE spec rather than the bottom of a band.

WHAT IS WITHDRAWN: the suggestion to consider 21.7 "to match the preferred pique". There is no preferred pique. 21.7 is an as-cut number from a garment that shrank. DO NOT order to it.

GUARDRAILS from the spec sheet, which do survive: do not go below 21.0 flat, do not go above 22.0 flat.

AND A SECOND-ORDER POINT I MISSED ENTIRELY — SHRINKAGE APPLIES TO APPOSTA TOO

The spec sheet establishes the principle: an order confirmation records a garment AS CUT, and on a washable fabric that is not what you wear.

Apposta Cotton-Bamboo Poplin is a washable cotton blend. Its 20.5 flat / 41.0 circ is an AS-CUT figure from the profile, not a measured garment. If it shrank like the piques did, the shirt on the body is tighter than 41.0 — and the owner still reports it as wearable.

THAT MAKES THE "WEARABLE" DATA POINT MORE INTERESTING, NOT LESS: it may sit meaningfully below 41.0 as worn.

IT ALSO MEANS THE CORRECTION SHOULD BE LARGER, NOT SMALLER. If Apposta shrinks, ordering 21.2 flat lands under 21.2 as worn. Ask Apposta whether their quoted measurements are pre- or post-shrink before setting the chest — step 1 of the spec sheet's own washable-fabric procedure.

THE MEASUREMENT THAT SETTLES BOTH QUESTIONS AT ONCE: lay the Apposta shirt flat and measure chest and shoulder. That converts it from as-cut to as-worn AND onto the workbook's convention. It is the same single action already flagged, and it is now the blocker on the chest as well as the shoulder.

*** SUNSPEL ORDER CAPTURED IN FULL — Aug 16, 2026. Source: us.sunspel.com account order page. ***

ORDER US-73202 · 06 JULY 2025 · Paid / Fulfilled · $203.00 · Visa via Stripe · Standard UPS, $0 shipping

Subtotal   203

Discount   0

Tax   0

Shipping   0

TOTAL   203

THE INFERRED DATE WAS EXACTLY RIGHT. Earlier today the purchase was placed at "approximately July 2025, implied ~Jul 6" from the anniversary email dated Jul 6, 2026. The order is dated 06 July 2025. Inference confirmed to the day.

*** WHY THE OLD "NEVER ORDERED" REASONING FAILED — NOW PROVEN, NOT GUESSED ***

The workbook concluded he had never ordered because every Sunspel campaign carries a WELCOME10 first-order discount, and it reasoned that a customer would not keep receiving one.

DISCOUNT ON THIS ORDER: $0.00. He ordered and simply DID NOT USE the welcome code. The premise was sound and the conclusion was still wrong.

The account page still shows "Get 10% off your first order" today, a year after a fulfilled order. Sunspel's marketing state and its order state are not linked. RULE: a first-order discount offer is not evidence of anything.

*** SIZE M — AND THE DATE IS THE PROBLEM ***

BOTH ITEMS ARE SIZE M. And 06 July 2025 is the SAME DAY as Banana Republic Factory order 1MMRW2J.

That BR order: SEVEN linen pieces, EVERY ONE SIZE M, bought for himself, FOUND TOO BIG, GIVEN AWAY to his father-in-law. It is recorded on the Banana Republic tab as size evidence.

So on one day in July 2025 he bought NINE size-M garments across two brands, and the seven we know about did not fit.

THE SUNSPEL PIECES ARE THEREFORE PRIME SUSPECTS FOR THE SAME OUTCOME — but nothing is recorded either way. DO NOT ASSUME. The BR pieces were RELAXED/STANDARD linen; a Sunspel Classic Jersey Polo is a different cut in a different fabric and may well fit at M.

RECIPIENT AND OWNERSHIP STATUS — BOTH UNKNOWN, DO NOT FILL IN BY INFERENCE

The Banana Republic tab established the two-column rule after exactly this error: a size-M garment bought FOR THE WIFE is not size evidence, while a size-M garment bought for himself and given away IS. The two look identical in a size column and mean opposite things.

RECIPIENT = UNKNOWN. Ask.

OWNERSHIP STATUS = UNKNOWN. Ask.

Until both are answered these two garments contribute NOTHING to the size analysis and must not be counted as evidence in either direction.

*** THE JULY 2025 BUYING BURST IS NOW FULLY MAPPED — SIX SOURCES IN SIX DAYS ***

Jul 1, 2025 Black Lapel shirt pattern created (shoulder 18.00)

Jul 3, 2025 APPOSTA Cotton-Bamboo Poplin shirt, $211.60 — profile copied from the Black Lapel pattern

Jul 4, 2025 STUDIOSUITS order 458780 — 3 Stretch Poplene shirts + $99 surcharge

Jul 6, 2025 SUNSPEL order US-73202 — polo + tee, both size M, $203

Jul 6, 2025 BR FACTORY order 1MMRW2J — 7 linen pieces, ALL size M, $129.55. TOO BIG, GIVEN AWAY.

Jul 21, 2025 STUDIOSUITS order 461815 — 3 linen shirts

Late June through July 2025 was the densest buying period in the wardrobe, and it sits squarely in the middle of the loose-to-snug migration. That is why so much of it is size-M and so much of it was too big.

MINOR ANOMALIES, RECORDED NOT RESOLVED

Billing address reads 7832 NW 131st St; shipping reads 7836 NW 131st St. Every other order in this workbook uses 7836. Almost certainly a typo in the billing record, but noted rather than silently corrected.

Shipping was $0 on a $203 order while the site banner states free shipping over $250. Either a promotion applied or the threshold differed in Jul 2025. Not material — recorded for completeness.

SKU colour codes not decoded: MPOL1052-BKAA (BK reads as black) and MTSH0192-BRFQ. COLOURS ARE NOT CONFIRMED — do not record a colour.

BRAND STATUS: SUNSPEL — 1 order, CONFIRMED, ITEMISED, $203, 2 garments, fulfilled Jul 2025. Was recorded as "PROSPECT, almost certainly never ordered" at the start of this session.

NOT YET ADDED to Orders or Garment Inventory — held pending RECIPIENT and OWNERSHIP STATUS, which determine whether these are Jesse's garments at all.

*** SUNSPEL FIT VERDICT — Owner, Aug 16, 2026 ***

Owner: "the sunspel fit ok. not too bad. i would be tempted to order a size S next to see how it fit."

RECIPIENT = JESSE. OWNERSHIP STATUS = OWNED / WORN. T33 resolved.

*** THIS BREAKS THE "SIZE M WAS TOO BIG" PATTERN — AND THAT IS THE USEFUL PART ***

Same day, 06 Jul 2025, two brands, both size M, DIFFERENT OUTCOMES:

CONCLUSION: SIZE M IS NOT UNIFORMLY WRONG. It failed on RELAXED WOVEN LINEN and held on FITTED JERSEY KNIT. Cut and fabric decide it, not the letter on the label.

This matters because the workbook has been treating the alpha ladder as a single body-driven sequence. It is that, but a size letter also means different things across cut and fabric class — the same lesson the measuring-point work produced today in a different domain.

*** THE LADDER SAYS ORDER THE SMALL. THREE INDEPENDENT BRANDS ALREADY AGREE. ***

The Bonobos tab records the alpha ladder as LARGE 2024 -> MEDIUM 2025 -> SMALL 2026, driven by a documented 30 lb weight loss.

The Sunspel M was bought 06 Jul 2025 — squarely in the MEDIUM era. It is being judged in Aug 2026, from the SMALL era. "Fit ok, not too bad" is exactly what a one-rung-stale garment feels like: wearable, but no longer the right size.

AND IT MAY HAVE BEEN STALE ON ARRIVAL. The Weight & Fit Timeline records that PAUL JAMES cut him SMALL in Aug 2025 — FOUR WEEKS after this order. An independent maker put him in Small a month later.

EVERY BRAND CURRENTLY AT SMALL:

Paul James Aug 2025 cut him SMALL — independent, four weeks after this Sunspel order

Charles Tyrwhitt Feb 2026 15 collar / Small — "current and correct"

Bonobos Mar 2026 Linen Polo, size S — "matches the current alpha ladder"

Sunspel Jul 2025 size M — THE ONLY ALPHA GARMENT STILL ON THE OLD RUNG

THE INSTINCT TO TRY S IS NOT A GUESS. It is the ladder, and three brands got there first. RECOMMENDATION: ORDER THE SMALL.

*** BEFORE ORDERING — TWO CHEAP CHECKS, IN THIS ORDER ***

1. WHICH GARMENT DOES "FIT OK" REFER TO? The order held a Classic Jersey Polo AND a Cotton Linen T-shirt. Those are different cuts in different fabrics and may not size the same. If only one was assessed, the other is still unknown.

2. MEASURE THE M POLO FLAT (chest, shoulder, length) AND COMPARE AGAINST SUNSPEL'S PUBLISHED SIZE CHART FOR S. That converts a guess into arithmetic and shows exactly how much comes off. Sunspel is British and cuts trim; going from "slightly loose" to "too tight" is a real risk on a jersey polo that has no seam allowance to let out.

*** WHAT TO ORDER, IF ORDERING BLIND ***

Test the SMALL on the COTTON LINEN T-SHIRT at $73 rather than the CLASSIC JERSEY POLO at $130. Same brand, same size system, roughly half the cost of being wrong.

CAVEAT, STATED PLAINLY: a tee and a polo are different cuts in different fabrics, so a good S in the tee does NOT prove a good S in the polo. It is a cheaper test of the BRAND'S sizing, not a proof for the specific garment. If the polo is what he actually wants, test the polo.

*** THIS ALSO BEARS ON THREE OPEN SIZE-M KNITS ***

The Wear Log and Shirt Inventory both carry an unresolved item: "the two Suitsupply size M polo cardigans and the Black Merino M — suspected too big, never confirmed", plus a CT Cream Merino M sweater.

The Sunspel M is now the FIRST CONFIRMED WEAR VERDICT ON ANY SIZE-M KNIT: only slightly loose, not unwearable.

THAT MAKES THE SUSPICION ABOUT THE OTHER M KNITS WEAKER, NOT STRONGER. If a Sunspel M jersey polo is merely a shade loose, comparable M knits are probably wearable too rather than write-offs. They should be TRIED ON before being written off — the same error the workbook made with Sunspel itself, where "almost certainly never ordered" turned out to be wrong.

SUNSPEL BRAND STATUS: 1 order, 2 garments, $203, both size M, both OWNED and WORN, fit acceptable but one rung stale. NEXT ORDER: SIZE S.

*** SUNSPEL SIZE-S RECOMMENDATION REFRAMED — Aug 16, 2026 ***

The owner wears BOTH size M and size S Suitsupply knits, choosing by day according to bloating. See the Wear Log for the full note.

THAT CHANGES THE PURPOSE OF THE SUNSPEL S ORDER. It is not a replacement for the M and the M should NOT be disposed of.

ORDER THE S TO COMPLETE THE PAIR — the same two-rung arrangement he already runs at Suitsupply. M for higher-fluctuation days, S for the rest.

This also LOWERS THE RISK OF THE ORDER. Previously the worry was that S might come back too tight and the money would be wasted. Now: if S is snug it is exactly the lower rung and gets worn; if it is skin tight it is genuinely too small. The failure band narrowed.

AND IT RAISES CONFIDENCE THE S WILL WORK. He already wears Small in Suitsupply knits, Charles Tyrwhitt (Feb 2026), Bonobos (Mar 2026) and Paul James (Aug 2025). Sunspel would be the fifth brand at Small.

Summary

Summary

Orders captured (all brands)   62

— Sartoro orders   33

— Suitsupply orders   12

— Oliver Wicks orders   1

— Black Lapel orders   2

— Hangrr orders   2

— Wool & Prince orders   2

— Allen Edmonds orders   5

— Christian Louboutin orders   1

— Hogan orders   1

— Raf Simons orders   1

— Saks Fifth Avenue orders   1

— Dillard's orders   1

Pants   30

Jackets   25

Vests   11

Shirts   5

Knitwear   26

Accessories   3

Footwear   10

Total garments   110

— Sartoro garments   42

— Suitsupply garments   32

— Oliver Wicks garments   2

— Black Lapel garments   2

— Hangrr garments   4

— Wool & Prince garments   6

— Allen Edmonds garments   7

— Christian Louboutin garments   1

— Hogan garments   1

— Raf Simons garments   1

— Saks Fifth Avenue garments   1

— Dillard's garments   8

Coordinated fabric groups   19

Orphan pants   11

Merchandise subtotal (captured)   25101.72

Sales tax paid   760.14

Shipping paid (captured)   548

Grand total spent (captured)   26409.86

— Sartoro   10990

— Suitsupply   9760.49

— Oliver Wicks   808

— Black Lapel   0

— Hangrr   850.18

— Wool & Prince   403.2

— Allen Edmonds   1740.62

— Christian Louboutin   917.88

— Hogan   392

— Raf Simons   214.09

— Saks Fifth Avenue   0

— Dillard's   333.4

Line items with NO captured price   8

Garments with NO confirmed delivery date   16

Average per garment (captured spend ÷ garments)   240.089636363636

First delivery (all sources)   Jul 25-28, 2022 (Raf Simons via Farfetch) — earliest captured; was Feb 17, 2025 before the PST archive harvest

Most recent confirmed delivery   Apr 18, 2026

Most recent order placed   May 9, 2026 (Hangrr HNG1733063)

• The grand total EXCLUDES four orders with no usable price: the Aug 7, 2025 Sartoro Ellis Black Pindot jacket order, Sartoro #7072, and BOTH Black Lapel orders. True spend is higher than the figure above.

• It also includes derived totals for seven Sartoro orders whose total line was cut off, and SUBTOTAL FLOORS (tax excluded) for three Suitsupply orders — see Total Basis on the Orders tab.

• FIVE BRANDS, all made-to-measure: Sartoro remotely from a digital tailor profile (Jan 28, 2025, never published); Suitsupply from an in-store fitting at Plano; Oliver Wicks remotely; Black Lapel from stored editable patterns; Hangrr from a stored editable body profile.

• Only Suitsupply order screens showed a sales-tax line. Sartoro, Oliver Wicks, Black Lapel and Hangrr showed none.

• The Hangrr Deep Purple Wool suit is priced as one line covering jacket AND trousers, so it counts as 2 garments but contributes its $379.01 only once.

• EIGHT garments have no confirmed delivery date on any captured screen: the Black Lapel pants ('On its way'), all four Hangrr items ('Order Shipped'), and the three Oliver Wicks items, whose Orders History page shows only 'Finished' / 'Shipped' statuses and no dates.

• KNOWN FIT PROBLEM: the Fuji Purple Velvet Blazer (Hangrr) does not fit — arms far too tight. NOT caused by a bad body measurement: Hangrr stores BODY measurements while every other brand stores GARMENT or pattern values, and once converted for ease Hangrr's figures are consistent. Most likely the SLIM fit model plus velvet's lack of give. See 'Alterations & Fit History'.

• The Sartoro garment count excludes the 6 add-on/selection lines, which are charges rather than garments.

FOLDED IN — Aug 14, 2026

Five brands were living on their own tabs and were counted nowhere. They are now in Garment Inventory and Orders.

The figures below are recomputed from those master tabs, not carried over from the brand tabs.

Orders added   16

— Hiroshi Kato orders   6

— Mauvais orders   5

— Archer Apparel orders   4

— Banana Republic Factory orders   1

— Naked & Famous orders   3

Garment rows added   30

— Hiroshi Kato rows   10

— Mauvais rows   12

— Archer Apparel rows   4

— Naked & Famous rows   1

— Banana Republic Factory rows   3

(Mauvais 12 rows = 13 garments: two lines carry qty 2. N&F is one row covering 4 pairs.)

Money added by the fold-in   4714.3

— Hiroshi Kato (6 orders, TRUE total)   2386.5

— Mauvais (4 direct orders, TRUE total)   984.97

— Naked & Famous (3 orders, TRUE total)   747

— Archer Apparel (3 of 4 priced — FLOOR)   535

— Banana Republic Factory (1 of 11 read — FLOOR)   60.83

RECOMPUTED MASTER TOTALS

Orders in the Orders tab   78

Garment rows in Garment Inventory   150

Sum of order totals (Orders tab)   30377.16

Sum of item prices (Garment Inventory)   29504.47

The two figures differ legitimately: order totals include tax and shipping, item prices do not, and some

orders carry a total where the individual item prices were never shown (and vice versa).

STILL A FLOOR — what the new numbers do NOT include

- Banana Republic: 10 of 11 orders unread. Both BR and BR Factory, Nov 2024 to Jul 2026. Biggest remaining read.

- Mauvais eBay order 07-14346-79815 — amount never read.

- Archer 3965 — price never read.

- Bonobos, Thursday Boot Co., Amberjack — declared owned, ZERO records anywhere.

- Ferragamo, Prada, and 2 of 3 Louboutin pairs — still no transactional record.

- White linen shorts — the Mauvais beige shorts are the only shorts captured; the white linen ones are not.

OWNERSHIP STATUS IS STILL NOT MODELLED

Captured spend and current wardrobe remain the same column. Known departures: the Mauvais W30 (returned),

Archer 3194 (returned), seven size-M Banana Republic linen pieces (given to father-in-law), Allen Edmonds 9.0,

and 20 too-big Charles Tyrwhitt pieces. None of these are flagged as gone. Adding an OWNERSHIP STATUS column

to Garment Inventory is the single highest-value structural change left.

UPDATE — Aug 14, 2026 (later): Banana Republic 1PS8JWR added

Orders in the Orders tab   79

Garment rows in Garment Inventory   158

Sum of order totals   30985.42

Sum of item prices   30064.43

BANANA REPUBLIC REMAINS THE BIGGEST OPEN READ: 2 of 11 orders read.

Read: 1PS8JWR ($608.26) and 1R4PMVW ($60.83). Nine still unread across both senders.

UPDATE 2 — Aug 14, 2026: Banana Republic 4 of 11 orders read

Orders in the Orders tab   81

Garment rows in Garment Inventory   162

Sum of order totals   31178.23

Sum of item prices   30224.43

BR read: 1PS8JWR $608.26 · 1R03L81 $144.20 · 1R4PMVW $60.83 · 1QTFP23 $48.61 = $861.90

BR unread: 7 orders — 1Q1269G, 1PMHQ0C, 1YQBTKB, 1K3WDHL, 1MYC4DD, 1MMRL4V, 1MMRW2J

NOTE: 2 garment rows (the wife's M tees) are counted in spend but are NOT Jesse's wardrobe. See BR tab.

SPEND vs WARDROBE — the split now exists (Aug 14, 2026)

Garment Inventory gained RECIPIENT and OWNERSHIP STATUS columns after the owner confirmed two garments were

bought for his wife. Captured spend and current wardrobe are no longer the same number.

Spend on garments for Jesse   30114.43

Spend on garments for others (wife)   110

Total captured spend   30224.43

*** THIS IS NOT A WARDROBE COUNT YET ***

Only 9 of 162 rows carry ownership EVIDENCE. The other 153 read "Jesse (assumed) / UNRESOLVED" — which records

that nobody has checked, not that it is confirmed. Do NOT publish a "current wardrobe" figure from this column

until the unresolved rows are worked through with the owner.

Known-gone items NOT yet reflected: 20 too-big Charles Tyrwhitt pieces · 7 size-M BR linen pieces (father-in-law)

· Allen Edmonds Caleb Derby 9.0 · Thomas Bird Ellington 43. These sit on other tabs and need the same columns.

MTM SPEC SHEET

MTM SPEC SHEET — what to type into Luxire, or any new custom maker

Built Aug 15, 2026 from the Lower Body Block, Upper Body Block, Proper Cloth ladder and the Suitsupply reference.

EVERY NUMBER HERE IS TRACEABLE. Nothing is estimated unless the row says ESTIMATE.

*** READ THESE THREE RULES FIRST — THEY CAUSE MORE ERRORS THAN THE NUMBERS DO ***

1. BODY vs GARMENT. Most sites ask which you are giving. BODY = measured on him. GARMENT = a finished item laid

flat. They are NOT interchangeable — garment carries ease on top of body. This sheet labels every row.

2. HALF (FLAT) vs FULL (CIRCUMFERENCE). Proper Cloth quotes FLAT inches. Trav at Archer quoted 6.75 FLAT for a

leg opening, which is 13.5 full. THE SUITSUPPLY WAIST UNIT IS STILL UNRESOLVED (46.5 vs 96; 41 vs 82).

A 2x error on the waist is the single most expensive mistake available. ALWAYS confirm the convention.

3. WAIST POSITION. He wears trousers at the TOP OF THE HIP BONES, about 2 in BELOW the natural waist.

Natural waist / belly button = 33.5 in. Wear point = just under 31 in. Say which you mean, every time.

================= trousers ==================

*** THE ONE FACT THAT MATTERS MOST ON A TROUSER ORDER: THE DROP IS +4 ***

Waist 31, seat 35. That is a +4 in drop. The industry drafts to +8 to +10.

CONSEQUENCE: any block cut to his waist arrives 4-6 in too large in the seat and 3-5 in too large in the thigh.

WHAT TO WRITE IN THE NOTES FIELD, VERBATIM:

"My waist-to-seat drop is only about 4 inches, not the usual 8-10. Please do not add standard seat and thigh

ease. Waist 31 at the top of the hip bones, seat 35, thigh 19. Cut the seat and thigh close; the waist has

never been the problem. Finished leg opening 13.5 inches."

Trav at Archer said the same thing in sizing language: "his waist is a size 30/29.5 but he needs the BODY of the

pants to be a size 28." Independent corroboration, eighteen months earlier.

WHAT IS NOT KNOWN FOR TROUSERS — do not invent these

- FINISHED GARMENT seat and thigh. Only the BODY figures are verified. No well-fitting trouser has ever been

measured flat and written down. If Luxire asks for garment seat/thigh rather than body, the honest answer is

that we do not have it — give body figures and let them apply their own ease, or measure a pair that fits.

- Knee circumference on the garment, and front/back rise on a pair confirmed to fit.

THE CHEAPEST FIX: lay the best-fitting trouser he owns flat and measure waist, seat, thigh, knee, hem, rise and

inseam. That converts this whole block from BODY to GARMENT and removes all ease guesswork permanently.

================= shirts ==================

GOOD NEWS: for shirts there ARE verified finished-garment numbers. Proper Cloth publishes flat garment inches on

every order, and the March 2026 shirt (AC2024242) is the newest, tightest and owner-confirmed as fitting.

THE EASE BAND — this is the transferable rule

Over a 38 in body chest, the workbook has three data points on finished chest:

Charles Tyrwhitt Extra Slim — static fit fine, MOVEMENT CONSTRAINED. The tight bound.

Proper Cloth Mar 2026, 42.4 in — about 4.4 in ease. WORKS.

Suitsupply shirt, about 44.5 in — about 6.5 in ease. JUDGED TOO FULL.

SUPERSEDED Aug 15, 2026 — see the corrected band below. 4-4.5 in was derived from the merino alone.

CRITICAL CAVEAT: the Charles Tyrwhitt problem was diagnosed as RANGE OF MOTION — back width and armhole — NOT

chest girth. DO NOT widen the chest to fix a pulling shirt. That correction is on record and still stands.

NON-NUMERIC SHIRT SPEC — get these wrong and the measurements will not save it

COLLAR STYLE: SHORT SPREAD (Ledbury "Alden" is the settled choice). Any spread-family collar is acceptable —

spread, semi-spread, quint, alden are interchangeable to him.

*** NEVER BUTTON-DOWN. *** Owner: "i HATE button down collars." Zero owned across 61 shirt records.

WATCH OUT: Ledbury DEFAULTS to button-down unless you change it. Assume other sites do too.

FIT MODEL: Extra-slim / very tailored. Shoulder-armpit "Very Tailored" on all four Proper Cloth shirts.

POSTURE: CHEST FORWARD 1 in — on the newest Proper Cloth shirt only. Whether it is required is NOT yet

confirmed; the shirt fits, but so did the shirt before it. Offer it, do not insist on it.

BACK DARTS: Yes on three of four. Default to yes.

FABRIC: Merino wool wovens have worked repeatedly. Brompton Mouline (Ledbury) bought out entirely.

A verified review warns the Ledbury CREAM is sheer and needs ironing every wash.

================= jackets ==================

SHOULDER 43.5 cm = 17.13 in. Suitsupply, professionally measured, and FOUR BRANDS INDEPENDENTLY AGREE near it:

Suitsupply 17.13 · Black Lapel rebuilt to 17.25 · Hangrr body profile 17.2 · Proper Cloth yoke 17.1-17.6.

This is the single most corroborated number in the entire workbook. Use it.

BASE SIZE: Suitsupply 36 jacket / 28 trouser (trouser figure is the BODY of the trouser, not the waist).

DO NOT USE THE 18.00 in SHOULDER. Black Lapel still holds it on a shirt and an overcoat, and nine old Sartoro

jackets were built to it. It is a stale pre-weight-loss spec and it is the worst number in the project.

NO BODY SHOULDER MEASUREMENT EXISTS. Every shoulder figure above is a GARMENT figure. If a maker asks for a body

shoulder, that is a genuine gap — measure seam to seam across the back, or give them the 17.13 garment figure and

say so explicitly.

================= quick copy block ==================

TROUSERS — body, inches: waist 31 (at top of hip bones) · seat 35 · thigh 19 · knee 14 · calf 13 · ankle 8

TROUSERS — garment, inches: rise front 9.5 / back 14.5 · inseam 31 · LEG OPENING 13.5 full circumference

TROUSERS — note: drop is +4, not +8-10. Do not add standard seat or thigh ease.

SHIRT — garment flat, inches: collar 15.4 · chest 21.2 · midsection 17.5 · yoke 17.1 · sleeve 34.3 ·

sleeve width 7.5 · cuff 8.4 · back length 31 · bottom 19.4

SHIRT — body: chest 38 · bicep 12 · neck 15

SHIRT — style: extra-slim, very tailored, back darts, SHORT SPREAD COLLAR, NEVER BUTTON-DOWN

JACKET: shoulder 17.13 in (43.5 cm) · base size 36 · NEVER 18.00 in

*** CORRECTED EASE BAND — Aug 15, 2026, after reading the BLACK pique AC1786802 ***

Four finished-chest data points now exist, with an owner-stated preference order:

20.70 flat / 41.4 circ / 3.4 in ease Navy pique LESS PREFERRED — too tight for his taste

21.20 flat / 42.4 circ / 4.4 in ease Merino woven FITS, worn Aug 14 2026

21.70 flat / 43.4 circ / 5.4 in ease BLACK pique AS-CUT ONLY — this garment SHRANK on first wash

22.25 flat / 44.5 circ / 6.5 in ease Suitsupply TOO FULL

SUPERSEDED Aug 15, 2026 — owner prefers the MERINO WOVEN. Single spec below. Do not use a band.

Do not go below 21.0 flat. Do not go above 22.0 flat.

FABRIC CLASS DOES NOT CHANGE THE TARGET.

The preferred shirt is a KNIT at 21.7 and the confirmed-fitting shirt is a WOVEN at 21.2. The two shirts he likes

bracket each other across fabric classes. Knit vs woven changes DRAPE, not the numbers to order.

The navy pique at 20.7 was a one-off tight cut, not a knit-specific rule.

SECONDARY MEASUREMENTS FROM THE PREFERRED SHIRT (black pique AC1786802) — use as the upper bound:

Collar 15.50 · Midsection 17.70 · Yoke 17.40 · Sleeve 33.70 · Sleeve width 7.80 · Cuff 8.70 ·

Bottom 19.70 · Back length 30.70 · BACK DARTS NONE · Two forearm pleats · President SPREAD collar.

NOTE: the preferred shirt has NO BACK DARTS while the merino has them. Untested whether that matters — offer

either, but if a maker asks, the preferred garment is dartless.

*** FINAL — THE SPEC IS THE MERINO WOVEN AC2024242. SETTLED Aug 15, 2026. ***

Owner: "actually prefer the merino woven ... let's just use the merino woven as the spec."

The pique shirts were captured for completeness only. They are NOT the target.

THE SPEC — give a new maker exactly this, flat garment inches:

Collar 15.4 · Chest 21.2 · Midsection 17.5 · Yoke 17.1 · Sleeve length 34.3 · Sleeve width 7.5 ·

Cuff 8.4 · Back length 31.0 · Bottom 19.4 · Back darts YES · Three forearm pleats · VERY TAILORED armhole

Chest ease 4.4 in over a 38 in body. Collar family SHORT SPREAD. NEVER button-down.

Optional: Chest Forward 1 in posture — present on this shirt, benefit unconfirmed.

*** NEW PRINCIPLE — SHRINKAGE MAKES ORDER SPECS UNRELIABLE ON WASHABLE FABRICS ***

Owner: "I think the pique shirt shrunk a bit when I washed it the first time too."

An order confirmation records the garment AS CUT. If the fabric shrinks on first wash, that number no longer

describes the garment on the body. EVERY measurement in this workbook taken from an order email is AS-CUT.

WHAT THIS INVALIDATES

- The black pique 21.70 chest is AS-CUT. Post-shrink it is smaller by an unknown amount, plausibly landing near

the merino 21.20 — which explains why the owner reads them as similar while the paper says 0.5 in apart.

- The navy pique 20.70 as-cut is the tightest shirt in the ladder; post-shrink, tighter still. That is the most

likely reason it is his least-preferred pique — a FABRIC-CARE outcome, not a spec error.

- Any inference from comparing a washable knit against a wool woven ON PAPER is suspect. After the first wash

they are no longer measured in the same state.

THE CARE-CLASS SPLIT — carry this into every future order

MERINO WOOL WOVEN (Reda PCF2333) — THE SPEC. No shrink reported across three merino shirts (Jan 2025,

Jul 2025, Mar 2026). Dimensionally stable, which is exactly why it is the reliable reference.

JAPANESE COTTON PERFORMANCE PIQUE (PCK04, PCK31) — washable, and SHRANK. As-cut specs overstate it.

ACTION FOR ANY NEW MAKER ON A WASHABLE FABRIC:

1. Ask whether quoted finished measurements are PRE-SHRUNK or POST-SHRUNK. Most sites do not say.

2. If pre-shrunk or unstated, add allowance rather than ordering the merino numbers verbatim.

3. DO NOT add that allowance to wool wovens — the merino numbers are proven as-worn across three shirts.

4. CHEAPEST TEST AVAILABLE: lay the black pique flat NOW and compare against its as-cut 21.70. That gives a

REAL shrinkage figure for this fabric instead of a guessed percentage.

*** FINISHED-GARMENT TROUSER BLOCK — ADDED Aug 16, 2026. THIS IS THE THING THIS SHEET SAID WAS MISSING. ***

The sheet above states: "FINISHED GARMENT seat and thigh. Only the BODY figures are verified... THE CHEAPEST FIX: lay the best-fitting trouser he owns flat and measure." Suitsupply publishes those numbers directly. No measuring required.

Source: Suitsupply Create Trousers Size dialog, Size 28 Brescia Slim Leg, profile shortened20260218, unit toggle = in. Width fields are FLAT; doubled below. See "SS MASTER — Full Measurements".

Field | Finished GARMENT value | Type | Confidence | Note

Waist | 32.4 in around | GARMENT | VERIFIED | Over a 31 in body waist at the hip bones = +1.4 in ease.

Thigh | 20.0 in around AT 6 IN BELOW THE CROTCH | GARMENT | VERIFIED VALUE, WRONG POINT FOR MOST MAKERS | Suitsupply measures the upper leg 6 in down. Do NOT quote this to a maker who measures at the crotch. Estimated crotch-level equivalent approx 21.6 in (ESTIMATE, treat as a floor).

Knee | 16.0 in around | GARMENT | VALUE VERIFIED, POINT UNCONFIRMED | Suitsupply calls this "lower leg width". Assumed to be the knee. NOT confirmed against the field tooltip.

Leg opening | 13.6 in around | GARMENT | VERIFIED | Confirms the 13.5 in target already on this sheet, from a second source.

Inseam | 29.8 in | GARMENT | VERIFIED | CORRECTS the "31 in (about), INFERRED" row above. Use 29.8.

Front rise | 8.6 in | GARMENT | VERIFIED | CONFLICTS with the "9 to 10 in, VERIFIED" row above. See flag below.

Back rise | 14.2 in | GARMENT | VERIFIED | Inside the 14-15 in range already recorded. Front-to-back difference +5.6 in, close to the +5 recorded.

Outseam | 38.4 in | DERIVED | inseam + front rise | Black Lapel outseam reads 39 in.

SEAT | NOT PUBLISHED | — | GAP REMAINS | Seat width, hip width and crotch are all dropdowns reading "Standard". The governing dimension still has no finished number. Measuring a trouser flat is STILL the only way to close it.

FRONT RISE CONFLICT — DO NOT AVERAGE THESE. This sheet records front rise 9-10 in as VERIFIED with the centre at 9.5, described as a tolerance he wears across. The Suitsupply reference trouser — the locked master, the one that fits — reads 8.6 in, below the entire stated range. Establish which garments each figure was taken from before quoting either to a maker.

EASE RULES NOW DERIVABLE FROM THE REFERENCE (garment minus body, circumference):

Waist +1.4 in · Thigh SEE CORRECTION BELOW · Knee +2.0 in (point unconfirmed) · Jacket chest +2.0 in · Jacket bicep +3.6 in over a 12 in body bicep

CORRECTED Aug 16, 2026 — THE THIGH FIGURE CANNOT BE USED AS WRITTEN. Suitsupply measures "upper leg width" 6 IN BELOW THE CROTCH; the 19 in body thigh is at the thickest point, at the crotch. The two are different places on the leg and the "+1.0 in of ease" derived from them is void. Estimated crotch-level garment thigh approx 21.6 in, implying roughly +2.6 in of ease or more — ESTIMATE ONLY, from a linear taper that almost certainly understates it. If a maker asks for thigh ease, say the honest thing: it has not been established, and give the body thigh of 19 in with the +4 drop instruction instead.

*** MEASURING-POINT WARNING — added Aug 16, 2026, owner-supplied ***

Rule 2 at the top of this sheet warns about HALF vs FULL. There is a third trap of the same kind and it is not yet written anywhere else: WHERE ON THE BODY the measurement is taken.

Confirmed instance: Suitsupply "upper leg width" is taken 6 IN BELOW THE CROTCH. A thigh measured at the crotch is a different and larger number.

WHAT TO SAY TO A MAKER, VERBATIM, WHEN GIVING A THIGH: "Is that measured at the crotch or below it, and how far below?" Then state which one your figure is.

This applies in both directions. Quoting a 6-in-down figure to a maker who drafts at the crotch produces a trouser roughly 1.5 in too tight through the upper leg — the mirror image of the seat-too-big problem this whole sheet exists to prevent.

*** YOKE = SHOULDER, CONFIRMED — and a tolerance warning. Aug 16, 2026 ***

Proper Cloth "Yoke Width" is measured from where the yoke meets the sleeve, straight across, to the same point on the other side — i.e. shoulder seam to shoulder seam, flat. When a maker asks for a shoulder measurement, 17.1 is a valid answer FOR A SHIRT.

SAY WHICH KIND: "17.1 inches, measured flat straight across the back from shoulder seam to shoulder seam — not over the curve of the shoulder." A maker who measures over the shoulder will read a larger number for the same garment.

DO NOT QUOTE IT TO THE SECOND DECIMAL. Proper Cloth accepts +/-0.25 in on this dimension. The working figure is about 17.2 for shirts; the Suitsupply JACKET figure of 17.13 is a different garment class and not interchangeable.

*** RETRACTED Aug 16, 2026 — "THE SHIRT SPEC IS INCOMPLETE / BOTTOM WIDTH CONTRADICTED". The comparison behind it was invalid. See the retraction immediately below. ***

The spec above gives Bottom 19.4 flat (38.8 circ), taken from the merino AC2024242. New evidence says that is too narrow.

StudioSuits — 28 heavily-worn shirts — carry a hem of 39.5 circ, which is 0.7 in WIDER than the spec, and the owner reports the hem catches the widest part of his hips and the bottom button must sometimes be left undone.

IF 39.5 CATCHES, 38.8 CATCHES HARDER. Handing this spec to a new maker verbatim would reproduce and worsen a known problem.

EVERY OTHER FIELD IN THE SPEC IS NOW DOUBLY CONFIRMED — StudioSuits independently runs chest 42.5 (spec 42.4), collar 15.5 (15.4), waist 35.5 (35.0), shoulder 17.5 (17.1), across 28 garments since May 2025. The spec is right; the hem is the one exception.

INTERIM GUIDANCE: order the spec as written EXCEPT the bottom, which should go to at least 40.5 circ (20.25 flat) pending the try-on test below. The Jan 2025 Proper Cloth shirt ran 42.2 circ, so there is headroom.

ALSO ADD TO ANY MAKER BRIEF: "The shirt hem must clear the widest part of the hip, or finish above it. This has been a real problem." A maker cannot infer that from a bottom-width number alone.

RESOLVE FIRST, IT IS FREE: StudioSuits front length went 30 -> 28.5 in Dec 2025 and BOTH are in the wardrobe. Wearing one of each shows whether shortening alone fixes it. Do that before setting a hem number.

AND ASK THE OBVIOUS QUESTION NOBODY HAS: does the merino AC2024242 — the spec garment itself — also catch at the hip? Its hem is narrower than the shirts that do. "Fits" was recorded on chest and shoulder; the hem was never discussed.

LENGTH FIELDS DO NOT MATCH ACROSS BRANDS: StudioSuits publishes FRONT length, Proper Cloth publishes BACK length. A StudioSuits 30 wears LONGER than a Proper Cloth 31 because the back hem drops below the front. Never transfer a length number between these two brands without stating which side it is.

*** RETRACTION — THE HEM CONCLUSION WRITTEN EARLIER TODAY IS WITHDRAWN. Aug 16, 2026. ***

The claim that the spec bottom width of 19.4 flat / 38.8 circ is "too narrow" rested on comparing StudioSuits (39.5, catches) against the spec (38.8). That comparison was invalid on TWO counts, both disclosed by the owner after it was written.

1. CARE. StudioSuits cotton is washed cold AND TUMBLE DRIED. The merino is cold-wash-only and dimensionally stable. At only 2 percent shrinkage the StudioSuits hem reaches 38.7 — BELOW the spec, not above it. The comparison may point the opposite way.

2. WEAR MODE. StudioSuits shirts are the only ones worn UNTUCKED. A tucked hem is never asked to clear the hip, so the other shirts were never tested — they did not pass.

THE SPEC AS WRITTEN IS FOR TUCKED SHIRTS AND STANDS UNCHANGED. Do not widen the bottom on that basis.

WHAT IS GENUINELY MISSING IS A SECOND SPEC. Proper Cloth publishes the rule: an untucked shirt wants a midsection at least 0.5 in BIGGER and a back length 1.5 to 2.5 in SHORTER than a slim tucked dress shirt. Build an UNTUCKED variant from the tucked spec using those offsets, plus a shrinkage allowance for any fabric that will be tumble dried.

CARE CLASS — THIRD ENTRY. The sheet already splits merino wool woven (stable) from Japanese cotton pique (shrank on wash). Add: STUDIOSUITS COTTON — washed AND TUMBLE DRIED, the harshest regime in the wardrobe. Every StudioSuits figure in this workbook is as-cut and overstates the garment as worn by an unmeasured amount.

ASK BEFORE EVERY FUTURE SHIRT ORDER, IT TAKES ONE LINE: will this shirt be TUCKED or UNTUCKED, and will it be TUMBLE DRIED? Those two answers change the numbers more than any maker-to-maker difference found in this project.

*** A THIRD WAIST — DAILY FLUCTUATION AT THE BELLY BUTTON. Owner, Aug 16, 2026. ***

Owner: the fluctuation is "around the belly button", and it is "1.5 to 2 inches sometimes".

THIS SHEET ALREADY WARNS ABOUT TWO WAISTS. THERE ARE THREE.

1. WEAR POINT — top of the hip bones, just under 31 in. Where trousers sit.

2. NATURAL WAIST / BELLY BUTTON — 33 in (Apr 8 2025 self-measurement) or 33.5 in (cited elsewhere on this sheet).

3. THE SAME BELLY-BUTTON WAIST ON A HIGH DAY — 1.5 to 2 in larger. NEW, and never recorded anywhere in this workbook.

Rule 3 at the top of this sheet says "Say which you mean, every time." It now needs a fourth word: say which POSITION, and which DAY.

*** THE ARITHMETIC — AND IT IS TIGHT ***

THE SETTLED SHIRT SPEC puts midsection at 17.5 flat = 35.0 circumference.

vs belly button on a LOW day (33.0) -> ease +2.0 in

vs belly button at +1.5 (34.5) -> ease +0.5 in

vs belly button at +2.0 (35.0) -> ease 0.0 in

AT THE TOP OF THE STATED RANGE THE SPEC SHIRT HAS NO EASE AT ALL AT THE BELLY BUTTON. If the 33.5 figure is the right one rather than 33.0, it goes NEGATIVE.

StudioSuits and Apposta both run a shirt waist of 35.5 circ — half an inch more, and still only +0.5 on a high day.

IMPORTANT CAVEAT, STATED BEFORE ANYONE ACTS ON THE ABOVE:

The garment "midsection" and the body "belly button" are NOT confirmed to sit at the same height. Proper Cloth defines midsection as the narrowest part of the shirt, roughly halfway between the armpits and the hem — which may sit ABOVE the navel. The comparison shows the DIRECTION of the problem, not a precise ease figure.

AND THE BODY FIGURE ITSELF IS UNSETTLED: this sheet cites 33.5 while the Lower Body Block records 33.0 from the Apr 8 2025 self-measurement. That 0.5 in disagreement matters at these margins. RESOLVE IT.

*** THIS EXPLAINS THREE THINGS THAT WERE PREVIOUSLY UNCONNECTED ***

1. WHY THE TROUSER WAIST NEVER MOVES. Trousers are worn at the top of the hip bones, about 2 in BELOW the navel — BELOW the fluctuation zone. The StudioSuits trouser waist held at exactly 31.5 across nine months while hip wandered 36->36->38->37 and thigh 22->22.5->23.25->22. The one dimension that sits out of the swing is the one dimension that never needed correcting.

2. WHY THE VELVET JACKETS WERE LET OUT AT THE WAIST AND BOTTOM SPECIFICALLY. That is exactly the region that swings 1.5-2 in — and velvet has no recovery. Two problems stacking in one place: a fabric that cannot give, across the only part of the body that changes daily. The wool jacket at identical numbers survived because wool eases.

3. WHY KNITWEAR IS RUN AS A TWO-SIZE PAIR. A 1.5-2 in daily swing is roughly one alpha size. He is not indecisive between S and M — HIS BODY CROSSES A SIZE BOUNDARY MOST WEEKS. Holding both rungs is the correct response.

*** THE DESIGN RULE THIS PRODUCES — AND IT IS ASYMMETRIC ***

His own acceptance thresholds are NOT symmetric: "loose but not billowy" is ACCEPTABLE. "Skin tight" is NOT.

A woven garment built to the LOW day is unwearable on a high day. A woven built to the HIGH day is merely slightly loose on a low day — which lands inside his acceptable band.

THEREFORE: BUILD WOVENS AT THE WAIST TO THE HIGH DAY. The cost of erring loose is comfort. The cost of erring tight is a garment he cannot wear at all on a given morning.

*** BUT DO NOT GENERALISE THIS — IT APPLIES TO ONE DIMENSION ONLY ***

This sheet and the Wear Log both record the rule "when torn between two sizes, take the tighter", driven by the documented preference migration and the wife's preference. That rule STANDS.

IT STANDS FOR EVERY DIMENSION THAT DOES NOT FLUCTUATE: shoulder, chest, sleeve, seat, thigh, knee, leg opening. Those are bone and muscle and do not change overnight.

THE WAIST AND THE MIDSECTION ARE THE EXCEPTION, and only in the belly-button region. Cut everything else close, and give the waist the swing.

THAT IS ALSO EXACTLY WHAT THE +4 DROP INSTRUCTION ALREADY SAYS: "Cut the seat and thigh close; the waist has to be right but it is the least of the problems." The fluctuation finding gives that sentence a mechanism.

*** WHAT I AM NOT DOING ***

I am NOT changing the settled shirt spec. The merino AC2024242 is the spec because it FITS and is worn — and if it were unwearable on high days that would presumably have been said by now.

The right next step is a question, not an edit: DOES THE MERINO FEEL TIGHT AT THE WAIST ON A BLOATED DAY? If yes, the spec midsection needs to rise and the whole shirt block moves with it. If no, then the garment midsection sits above the navel and the arithmetic above overstates the problem.

One answer settles whether this is a real defect in the spec or an artefact of comparing two different heights on the body.

*** RESOLVED — THE SHIRT SPEC IS SAFE. THE FLUCTUATION SITS BELOW IT. Owner, Aug 16, 2026. ***

Owner: "it's still wearable. my smallest measure I have is right below my rib cage. and it does not change much. it's just right around the belly button. and a big dinner with wine late at night can cause it to be measurably larger in the morning."

T43 ANSWERED: the merino AC2024242 remains wearable on a bloated day. THE SETTLED SHIRT SPEC STANDS UNCHANGED. No edit required.

*** AND HERE IS WHY THE ARITHMETIC OVERSTATED THE PROBLEM ***

Proper Cloth defines MIDSECTION as "the narrowest part of the shirt's body". The owner's narrowest BODY point is RIGHT BELOW THE RIB CAGE — and that point DOES NOT CHANGE MUCH.

So the garment field and the stable body landmark line up. The spec was never measured at the navel, which is why it survives a navel that swells.

I compared a garment field defined at the NARROWEST point against a body point (the navel) that is neither the narrowest nor stable. Wrong pairing — the same class of measuring-point error this session has now hit SIX times.

THE CAVEAT I FLAGGED IS CLOSED, AND IT CLOSED IN FAVOUR OF THE SPEC.

*** THE WAIST MAP IS NOW COMPLETE — THREE LANDMARKS, TWO STABLE, ONE NOT ***

1. JUST BELOW THE RIB CAGE — the NARROWEST point. STABLE ("does not change much"). VALUE HAS NEVER BEEN MEASURED. This is where a shirt midsection lands.

2. NAVEL / natural waist — 33.0 to 33.5 in. FLUCTUATES 1.5 to 2 in. NOTHING IS SPECIFIED HERE BY ANY BRAND.

3. TOP OF THE HIP BONES — just under 31 in. STABLE. This is where trousers sit.

THE TWO STABLE LANDMARKS ARE THE TWO THAT GARMENTS ARE ACTUALLY BUILT TO. The one that moves is the one nobody measures. That is why this wardrobe works as well as it does — and it looks like luck rather than design.

*** THE GAP THAT FALLS OUT OF THIS — AND IT IS STRUCTURAL ***

A shirt is specified at the MIDSECTION (narrowest, above the navel, stable) and at the BOTTOM (hem, at the hip, stable). BETWEEN THOSE TWO POINTS IT CROSSES THE NAVEL — the one region that swells 1.5-2 in — AND NO BRAND IN THIS WORKBOOK HAS A FIELD THERE.

Proper Cloth, StudioSuits, Apposta, Suitsupply, Black Lapel: all specify above it and below it. None specify at it. The fluctuating zone is unmeasured and uncontrolled on every shirt he owns.

POSSIBLE CONNECTION, NOT ESTABLISHED: the StudioSuits untucked hem catching the hip may be worse on high-fluctuation days, because a swollen midriff pushes the shirt outward and shortens its effective drop. WORTH NOTICING — is the bottom button left undone more often the morning after a big dinner?

*** THE TRIGGER IS PREDICTABLE, WHICH MAKES IT MANAGEABLE ***

A big dinner with wine late at night produces a measurably larger navel THE FOLLOWING MORNING. Not random, and not same-day only — it carries overnight.

PRACTICAL: on that morning, reach for the MEDIUM knit rather than the Small, and expect the untucked shirts to sit differently. The wardrobe already contains the answer; it has just never been named as a rule.

*** REVISED RULE FOR EVERY FUTURE MAKER BRIEF ***

ALWAYS SPECIFY THE NARROWEST POINT, JUST BELOW THE RIB CAGE. NEVER BUILD A SPEC ON THE NAVEL.

A maker who asks for the "natural waist" and takes it at the navel is measuring the one landmark on this body that is not reliable, and will get a different answer depending on what was eaten the night before.

WORDING TO USE: "Take my waist at the narrowest point, just below the rib cage — not at the navel. The navel varies day to day by up to two inches; the point below the ribs does not."

Sits alongside the existing rule that trouser waist means 31 in AT THE TOP OF THE HIP BONES. Two stable landmarks named explicitly, and the unstable one excluded by name.

THE SMALLEST MEASUREMENT HAS NEVER BEEN CAPTURED. It is now the most important body number missing from this workbook — it is where the shirt block is actually built, and it is stable enough to trust.

THE REFERENCE — Suitsupply

THE REFERENCE — Suitsupply

Owner-designated baseline for all future orders, Aug 2026. This is the master fit record and every other brand should be restated against it.

WHY IT WINS: it is the only measurement set in this workbook that is clean on all three axes — taken by a professional rather than self-reported, taken at stable weight (Oct/Nov 2025, mid-plateau), and taken with no loose-to-snug preference drift baked in.

THE TWO GENERATIONS — and what each one IS

A GAP THIS WORKBOOK HAD WRONG

• The unrevised waistcoat was previously logged as an oversight — 'the waistcoat was never revised and still runs the Plano profile.' It is not an oversight. It is a PASS. The Plano waistcoat fit correctly out of the box and needed nothing.

• Equally, the Feb 18 revision was previously read as evidence that Plano had been wrong. It was not. It is Plano plus two small owner-authored tweaks: trousers a touch shorter, jacket slightly modified. Refinement on a good baseline, not a correction of a bad one.

• That makes the reference stronger, not weaker. Three garment types measured professionally at stable weight, two lightly tuned by the wearer, one confirmed perfect untouched.

THE CROSS-BRAND CHECK THAT SUPPORTS IT

• Suitsupply shoulder 43.5 cm = 17.13″. Black Lapel rebuilt to 17.25″ FROM these numbers on Nov 7, 2025. Hangrr's body profile reads 17.2″. Proper Cloth's Mar 2026 yoke landed at 17.10″ independently. Four brands inside 0.15″, with Suitsupply in the middle of the cluster.

STILL RUNNING THE OLD SPEC — these need restating against the reference

• BLACK LAPEL SHIRT (Jul 1, 2025) — shoulder still 18.00. Never rebuilt.

• BLACK LAPEL OVERCOAT (May 7, 2025) — shoulder still 18.00. Never rebuilt.

• OLIVER WICKS — shoulders −1 cm queued and NEVER APPLIED. Also biceps +1.5 cm and length +5 cm outstanding.

• SARTORO old generation — 9 jackets plus their pants and vests at the 18″ shoulder spec.

THE ONE LIVE RISK ON USING THESE NUMBERS

• UNIT INCONSISTENCY, UNRESOLVED. Plano jacket waist reads 46.5 cm; the Feb 18 jacket reads 96 cm. Trousers: 41 cm versus 82 cm. That is almost exactly a 2× relationship — a half-measure versus a full circumference.

• Shoulders are unaffected: 43.5 cm is unambiguous, and it is the number four brands agree on.

• But before any waist figure is handed to Sartoro or to Chris at Covenant Brothers, CONFIRM WHICH CONVENTION IT IS IN. A 2× error on the waist is the single most expensive mistake available here, and the waist is already the dimension under active adjustment.

VALIDATION QUESTION

• Two Suitsupply orders were placed AFTER the Feb 18 revision — 04125554953 (delivered Mar 19, 2026) and 04130095970 (delivered Apr 18, 2026), the Purple Wool Silk Linen jacket and trousers. If those two fit correctly, the Feb 18 profile is proven in the real world and can be locked with confidence. Their fit is not yet recorded anywhere in this workbook.

*** UNIT QUESTION RESOLVED — Aug 16, 2026. THIS SUPERSEDES "THE ONE LIVE RISK" ABOVE. ***

Owner supplied the Create Jacket / Trousers / Waistcoat Size dialogs with the unit toggle set to INCHES. See the "SS MASTER — Full Measurements" tab.

RULE: width fields are HALF / FLAT (double for circumference); length fields are DIRECT. Both conventions coexist inside one profile — it was never a generational split.

Decoded: Plano cm figures were FLAT. Feb 18 cm figures were CIRCUMFERENCES. The apparent doubling was a display change, not a garment change.

CONSEQUENCE FOR THE TROUSERS: converted to a common convention, Plano and Feb 18 are IDENTICAL on waist, upper leg, lower leg and foot opening. The Feb 18 revision altered exactly ONE dimension — the inseam, 1 cm shorter. The workbook previously read four width changes into it. There were none.

CONSEQUENCE FOR THE JACKET: waist genuinely widened from 46.5 to 48.0 cm flat (+0.6 in flat / +1.2 in around) between Plano and Feb 18. That change is real.

CONSEQUENCE FOR BLACK LAPEL: the "confirm before treating them as an independent measuring session" caveat is now settled. Black Lapel jacket chest 40.0 in matches the doubled Suitsupply chest EXACTLY, and sleeve, length, front length and shoulder all match within 0.35 in. Black Lapel is a transcription of this reference, not a second opinion on it.

The waist figure can now be handed to Sartoro or to Chris at Covenant Brothers. State the convention explicitly: jacket waist 37.6 in AROUND, trouser waist 32.4 in AROUND.

ADDED Aug 16, 2026 TO "STILL RUNNING THE OLD SPEC": APPOSTA — Cotton-Bamboo Poplin shirt, order 1751558736647, 3 Jul 2025, shoulder 18 IN, owner-confirmed. Apposta holds this profile on file and will rebuild to it unless corrected. REORDER IS BLOCKED pending a sizing update.

The old-spec cohort is now: Black Lapel shirt (18.00) · Black Lapel overcoat (18.00) · Suitsupply shirt as built (18.31) · APPOSTA (18) · Oliver Wicks (shoulders -1 cm queued, never applied) · Sartoro old generation (9 jackets plus pants and vests at 18 in).

SS MASTER — Full Measurements

SUITSUPPLY MASTER MEASUREMENTS — captured in INCHES, Aug 16 2026

Source: owner-supplied screenshots of the Suitsupply "Create Jacket / Trousers / Waistcoat Size" dialogs with the unit toggle set to "in".

These are the SAME three profiles already in the Size Passport tab, displayed in inches and showing the FULL field list rather than only the adjusted fields.

BASIS: FINISHED GARMENT measurements of the adjusted pattern. The dialog states "Make adjustments by measuring a garment that already fits you." These are NOT body measurements.

*** THE UNIT CONVENTION IS NOW RESOLVED — THIS SUPERSEDES EVERY "UNIT INCONSISTENCY" WARNING IN THIS WORKBOOK ***

RULE: WIDTH fields are HALF / FLAT. Double them to get a circumference. LENGTH fields are DIRECT — no doubling.

Both conventions live inside a single profile. It was never a generational split. The field-by-field theory recorded on the Size Passport tab was correct.

PROOF — the stored cm profiles decode exactly under this rule:

THREE INDEPENDENT CHECKS THAT THE WIDTH FIELDS ARE FLAT:

1. Sleeve opening 5.4 flat -> 10.8 in around. Black Lapel wrist 10.75 in; Oliver Wicks wrist 27.2 cm = 10.71 in. Three-way agreement.

2. Bicep "around" reads 7.8 — impossible as a real circumference. Doubled = 15.6; Black Lapel bicep 15.25 in.

3. Trouser foot opening 6.8 flat -> 13.6 in around, against the MTM Spec Sheet's VERIFIED leg opening of 13.5 in full circumference. Independent confirmation from a different tab.

JACKET — Size 36 Havana · profile "length/width20260218" · CURRENT

Adjusting Size 36. Owner confirms there are NO fields below Sleeve rotation — this is the complete list.

Adjustment count on this screen: 13. Profile on file states 13. MATCH — confirms this screen is the CURRENT profile.

TROUSERS — Size 28 Brescia Slim Leg · profile "shortened20260218" · CURRENT

Adjusting Size 28. Advanced options expanded; Flat seat is the last field.

Adjustment count on this screen: 7. Profile on file states 7. MATCH — confirms this screen is the CURRENT profile.

WAISTCOAT — Size 36 Ferrara · Plano profile · CURRENT, never revised

Adjusting Size 36. Advanced options expanded; Front length is the last field.

Adjustment count on this screen: 3. Profile on file states 3. MATCH — confirms this screen is the CURRENT profile.

*** THE FINISHED-GARMENT BLOCK — this is what to hand any new maker ***

All figures FULL CIRCUMFERENCE in inches unless the row says otherwise. Derived by doubling the flat width fields above. GARMENT, not body.

WHAT THIS CAPTURE CHANGES — read before using any older note

1. UNIT RISK CLOSED for the jacket, trousers and waistcoat. Width = flat, double it. Length = direct. The "2x error on the waist" warning on the MTM Spec Sheet and THE REFERENCE tab is retired for these three garments.

2. THE FEB 18 TROUSER REVISION CHANGED ONE THING ONLY — the inseam, 1 cm shorter. Converted to a common convention, Plano and Feb 18 are IDENTICAL on waist (41 flat), upper leg (25.5), lower leg (20.5) and foot opening (17.5). The Size Passport tab currently reads those as real changes ("was -0.5 / 25.5 cm"). They were a display-unit switch, not an alteration.

3. BLACK LAPEL IS A DERIVATIVE, NOT CORROBORATION — now proven, not suspected. Jacket chest matches to 0.0 in, and sleeve, jacket length, front length and shoulder all match within 0.35 in. "SS measurements" = Suitsupply, confirmed. The only genuinely independent shoulder readings remain Suitsupply 17.13-17.2 and Hangrr 17.2.

4. WITHDRAWN Aug 16, 2026 — the Black Lapel thigh "outlier" was a measuring-point artifact, not a real 3 in discrepancy. Suitsupply measures the upper leg 6 IN BELOW THE CROTCH. See the correction block at the end of this tab.

5. INSEAM CORRECTED. The MTM Spec Sheet inseam of "31 in (about), INFERRED" should read 29.8 in, VERIFIED from the reference garment.

6. FRONT RISE CONFLICT. The Spec Sheet records front rise 9-10 in as VERIFIED with the centre at 9.5. The reference trouser reads 8.6 — below the whole stated range. Either the Spec Sheet range came from other trousers, or the reference trouser sits lower than believed. Do not average them; establish which garments each figure came from.

7. CHEST EASE IS ONLY +2 IN. Finished jacket chest 40.0 over a 38 in body chest. Oliver Wicks by contrast built 41.9 in. If the Suitsupply jackets feel right, +2 in is the target and Oliver Wicks is nearly 2 in too full.

8. THE SEAT IS STILL NOT PUBLISHED. Seat width, hip width and crotch on the trouser profile are all dropdowns reading "Standard", so no number exists for the single governing dimension. The only way to close it remains measuring a well-fitting trouser flat.

9. WAISTCOAT SHOULDER/POSTURE INCONSISTENCY. The jacket corrects posture (-0.4 backward) and both sloped shoulders (-0.4 R, -0.2 L). The waistcoat corrects neither and reads Standard on all three. Same body, same fitting. The waistcoat was reported as fitting perfectly, so this may not matter in practice — but the two profiles disagree about the body.

10. OPEN: the jacket Skirt value. Live screen -0.2 in (= -0.5 cm); the earlier Feb 18 capture recorded -1.0 cm. Every other field on all three garments converts exactly, so the -1.0 is probably a misread — but it is not proven.

*** CORRECTION — MEASURING POINTS. Added Aug 16, 2026. Owner-supplied. ***

SUITSUPPLY MEASURES "UPPER LEG WIDTH" 6 INCHES BELOW THE CROTCH. Many makers — and most body-measurement instructions — take the thigh AT the crotch, at the thickest point.

WHAT THIS BREAKS:

• The "+1.0 in of thigh ease" figure recorded earlier today is WRONG. It compared a garment width taken 6 in down against a body thigh taken at the thickest point. Those are different places on the leg.

• The "Black Lapel thigh is 3 in wider" finding is WITHDRAWN. Black Lapel's measuring point is unknown; the gap may be mostly or entirely an artifact.

• Any instruction to hand a maker "thigh 20.0 in" is UNSAFE. A maker measuring at the crotch would cut the trouser roughly 1.5 in too narrow through the seat and upper thigh — the exact failure this project keeps hitting, in the opposite direction.

ESTIMATED CROTCH-LEVEL EQUIVALENT — ESTIMATE, NOT VERIFIED:

Taper from the 6 in point (20.0 in around) to the hem (13.6 in around) over 23.8 in of leg = 0.269 in per inch of length.

Extrapolated up 6 in to the crotch: approx 21.6 in around. Implied ease over a 19 in body thigh: approx +2.6 in.

TREAT 21.6 AS A FLOOR, NOT A TARGET. The extrapolation assumes a linear taper. Real trousers narrow FASTEST in the first few inches below the crotch, so the true crotch-level width is probably wider than 21.6 — meaning the true ease is more than +2.6 in.

Against that estimate the Black Lapel thigh of 23 in is roughly 1.4 in wider, not 3 in — and possibly not wider at all, depending on where Black Lapel measures.

THE GENERAL LESSON — THIS IS BIGGER THAN THE THIGH:

Every field name on the Suitsupply dialog carries a defined measuring point behind its "i" tooltip, and this workbook has been mapping those names onto generic terms (upper leg -> thigh, lower leg -> knee) without reading them. The unit convention is now solved; the MEASURING POINT convention is not.

CONFIRMED so far: upper leg width = 6 in below the crotch (owner-supplied).

UNCONFIRMED and in active use: lower leg width (assumed knee), waist width (assumed at the waistband), front rise and back rise (start and end points unstated), jacket chest / waist / hip (heights on the body unstated), back width, bicep around.

NEXT ACTION: open the "i" tooltip on each field and record the definition verbatim. That is the last structural unknown in the Suitsupply reference. Until then, every ease figure derived from it is provisional.

WHAT SURVIVES UNCHANGED: the unit rule (width = flat, double it; length = direct), every cm-to-inch reconciliation, the adjustment counts, the finding that the Feb 18 trouser revision only shortened the inseam, and the finding that Black Lapel is a transcription of Suitsupply rather than independent corroboration. Measuring points affect what the numbers MEAN across brands, not whether they were read correctly.

*** CROSS-BRAND FIELD MAP — PROPER CLOTH <-> SUITSUPPLY. Owner-directed, Aug 16, 2026 ***

STATUS: WORKING EQUIVALENCE, set by the owner. The Proper Cloth side is verified from their published measuring guide. The Suitsupply side is NOT — those field definitions have not been read. Use it, but know which half is evidence.

*** THE USEFUL CONSEQUENCE — NO CONVERSION IS NEEDED ***

Proper Cloth stores Chest / Midsection / Bottom / Sleeve Width as FLAT half-measures (their words: multiply by 2 for circumference). Suitsupply width fields were proven FLAT today as well. Both sides of this map are therefore in the SAME convention.

So Proper Cloth flat inches can be typed straight into Suitsupply inch width fields with NO doubling and NO unit maths. That is the practical payoff of resolving the Suitsupply unit question. The only remaining variable is WHERE each field is measured, not what scale it is in.

THREE THINGS TO KNOW BEFORE RELYING ON THIS MAP:

1. "ROUGHLY the same position" is doing real work on the midsection row. Proper Cloth states the midsection point MOVES with back length — a longer shirt lowers the point at which it is measured. His back length ran 32 -> 31 -> 31 across the three Reda wovens, so even within Proper Cloth the midsection was not always taken at the same height on the body. Mapping it onto a fixed Suitsupply "waist" inherits that drift.

2. MIDSECTION AND BOTTOM ARE ONLY ABOUT 1.9 IN APART (17.5 vs 19.4 flat). If the Suitsupply waist and hip points sit higher or lower than the Proper Cloth ones, the two numbers get applied at the wrong heights and the shirt takes on the wrong shape through the body — a swap, not a scaling error. Vertical position matters more here than on any other field.

3. TOLERANCE. Proper Cloth accepts +/-0.25 in on Midsection Width and on Bottom Width. Do not carry these to the second decimal into another brand's form.

SANITY CHECK — the mapped numbers are not absurd:

Shirt waist 17.5 flat vs Suitsupply JACKET waist 18.8 flat — shirt narrower than the jacket worn over it. Correct direction.

Shirt hem 19.4 flat vs Suitsupply JACKET hip 18.8 flat — shirt flares at the hem, jacket stays fitted. Correct direction.

Neither check validates the POSITION. They only confirm the values are not nonsense.

Size Passport

Size Passport — measurement profiles by brand

MEASUREMENT BASIS DIFFERS BY BRAND — DO NOT COMPARE NUMBERS ACROSS BRANDS WITHOUT CONVERTING FOR EASE. Hangrr stores BODY measurements (inches). Oliver Wicks publishes FINISHED GARMENT measurements including ease (cm). Suitsupply publishes GARMENT ADJUSTMENTS off a base pattern size (cm). Black Lapel publishes derived PATTERN values (inches). Sartoro publishes nothing. Values below are verbatim from the account screens.

Notes:

• SARTORO IS THE BIG GAP. Sartoro does not publish measurements anywhere in the customer account — only the profile date (Jan 28, 2025) and the note 'digital tailor measurements'. To reconstruct it you have to ask Sartoro support directly for the profile, or measure the garments yourself. Every one of the 42 Sartoro garments was cut to that single unchanged profile.

• SUITSUPPLY HAS EXACTLY TWO GENERATIONS, not five: the Plano in-store fitting (~Dec 2025) created three profiles — one each for jacket, trousers and waistcoat — and Feb 18, 2026 revised two of them online (jacket and trousers). The waistcoat was never revised. Three profile CARDS from Plano is one FITTING, which matches 'only one before the Feb date'. || CORRECTED Aug 2026: this is NOT an oversight. The Plano waistcoat fit perfectly and deliberately needed no revision. The Feb 18 jacket and trouser changes were Jesse's own small tweaks, not error corrections.

• The Feb 18, 2026 revision is not a coincidence: order 04119572340 (Dark Blue Bird's eye three-piece) was DELIVERED Feb 18, 2026, and both revised profiles were created online that same day. The trouser profile is literally named 'shortened'.

• WATCH THE UNITS. On the Plano jacket, Waist width reads 46.5 cm; on the Feb 18 jacket it reads 96 cm. Same for trousers (41 cm vs 82 cm). Suitsupply appears to switch between a half-measure and a full circumference between profile versions, so the two generations are NOT directly comparable on width. Verify with Suitsupply before using either number to order.

• Which garments were cut to which Suitsupply profile is INFERRED, not confirmed — Suitsupply never showed an order date on any screen, only delivery. The inference uses the order-number sequence (PSUS02480464 < 04119572340 < 04123377141 < 04125554953 < 04127707425 < 04130095970) and delivery dates.

• OLIVER WICKS publishes the opposite of Suitsupply: final garment measurements including ease, plus a 'Change' column holding what will be applied to the NEXT order. Three changes are queued and unapplied: jacket length +5 cm, biceps +1.5 cm, shoulders -1 cm. Any Oliver Wicks garment already delivered was made WITHOUT those changes.

• Oliver Wicks pants Thigh measurement was cut off by the browser bar and is the one missing number.

• BLACK LAPEL publishes a third format again: BODY-STYLE pattern measurements in INCHES, editable directly in the account, one pattern per garment type (Shirt / Jacket / Pants / Vest / Overcoat). Sartoro publishes nothing, Suitsupply publishes adjustments off a base size in cm, Oliver Wicks publishes finished-garment numbers in cm.

• The Black Lapel Jacket, Pants and Vest patterns are all named 'from SS measurements' and all dated Nov 7, 2025 — 'SS' is almost certainly SUITSUPPLY, meaning the Plano in-store fitting is what seeded the Black Lapel patterns. Confirm before treating them as an independent measuring session.

• TIMING PROBLEM: both Black Lapel garments in this inventory shipped in Aug–Oct 2025, BEFORE the Nov 7, 2025 patterns were created. Whatever pattern they were actually cut to is not on the captured screens.

• The Shirt (Jul 1, 2025) and Overcoat (May 7, 2025) cards did NOT display the 'this is your default Pattern' notice that the Jacket, Pants and Vest cards did — so it is unconfirmed whether those two are the active defaults.

• Chest is not consistent across Black Lapel patterns: Jacket 40.00 in, Vest 39.00 in, Shirt and Overcoat 41.25 in. Shoulder point to point: 17.25 in on jacket/vest, 18 in on shirt/overcoat.

• FITTING DATE TIGHTENED. The Plano fitting was previously dated '~Dec 2025' here, inferred from the first Suitsupply delivery (Dec 19, 2025). Jesse confirms he rebuilt the Black Lapel patterns AFTER that fitting, and those patterns are dated Nov 7, 2025 — so the fitting happened ON OR BEFORE Nov 7, 2025, earlier than this workbook assumed. Still not a confirmed date; it is now an upper bound.

• The Suitsupply jacket shoulder width of 43.5 cm converts to 17.13 in, which rounds to 17.25 in at the nearest quarter — exactly the value the Nov 7, 2025 Black Lapel Jacket and Vest patterns carry. That is strong support for 'SS measurements' meaning Suitsupply, though the two brands may not define the shoulder measurement identically.

• See the 'Alterations & Fit History' tab for the post-delivery alterations and the full cross-brand shoulder comparison.

• HANGRR publishes a full editable BODY profile in inches — the most complete self-serve measurement set of any brand here, and the only one that captures tummy, hips, crotch and thigh alongside the jacket numbers.

• Hangrr's shoulder reads 17.2 in, sitting between Suitsupply (17.13) and Black Lapel (17.25). All three post-Suitsupply brands now agree on roughly 17.2. Only the un-rebuilt Black Lapel Shirt and Overcoat patterns (18 in) and the un-applied Oliver Wicks profile (17.87 in) are still on the old wide shoulder.

• BICEP — CORRECTED. Hangrr's 12.3 in is a BODY measurement. Black Lapel's 15.25 in is a pattern value and Oliver Wicks' 14.57 in is a finished-garment value; both include ease, so the apparent ~3 in gap is not a discrepancy. See the corrected analysis on the 'Alterations & Fit History' tab.

• JACKET WAIST reads 0 in. That is almost certainly an unset field rather than a measurement, and it means Hangrr is drafting the jacket waist from something other than a stated number.

• The Hangrr profile carries NO date, so there is no way to tell from the screen whether it predates or postdates the March and May 2026 orders.

• BASIS IS THE THING TO WATCH ON THIS TAB. Four brands, four conventions: Hangrr BODY (in), Oliver Wicks FINISHED GARMENT (cm), Suitsupply GARMENT ADJUSTMENTS off a base size (cm), Black Lapel derived PATTERN values (in). A raw number-to-number comparison across brands is meaningless except at the shoulder, where observed ease is only +0.67 in.

• SUITSUPPLY SHIRT PROFILE ADDED (this session). Source: owner-supplied Size Passport screen from the OLDER Suitsupply account. This is the FOURTH Suitsupply profile and the first for a shirt — the workbook previously held only Jacket, Trousers and Waistcoat.

• IT IS CONFIRMED AS THE PATTERN BEHIND BOTH CUSTOM MADE SHIRTS. Order 0466666362's confirmation email reads "Size 15 / Fit: Standard fit", matching this profile exactly.

• DATE: the screen says "created Plano, a year ago". That is a rounded relative date. The shirts cut from it were ordered Mar and May 2025, and the Mar order was placed AT Plano, so creation is most likely ~Mar 2025 — roughly EIGHT MONTHS BEFORE the Plano suit fitting. Plano is a relationship, not a single visit.

• DO NOT COMPARE THE SHIRT SHOULDER TO THE JACKET SHOULDER WITHOUT THINKING. Shirt shoulder width reads 46.5 cm (18.31 in); the jacket profile reads 43.5 cm (17.13 in). A 3 cm difference is roughly 1.5 cm of shoulder drop per side, which is ordinary for a shirt over a body — so these are probably ONE body measured on TWO garment classes, not a contradiction. This is the same trap the Proper Cloth woven-vs-knit note warns about, one level up.

• CONSEQUENCE — THE BLACK LAPEL SHIRT VERDICT IS CHALLENGED, NOT OVERTURNED. That shirt was condemned for an 18.00 in shoulder by comparison against Suitsupply's JACKET figure of 17.13 in. Against Suitsupply's own SHIRT figure of 18.31 in, 18.00 in looks defensible. Do not lift the "do not order" flag until the owner has tried the Lyocell Silk shirts on and reported where the shoulder seam lands.

• CORRECTED Aug 16, 2026 — THE "YOKE PANEL" CLAIM WAS WRONG. Proper Cloth's own measuring guide says: button the shirt, spread it out on its front, measure from the point where the yoke meets the sleeve, straight across, to the same point on the other side. The yoke meets the sleeve AT THE SHOULDER SEAM, so PC yoke width IS shoulder-seam to shoulder-seam. Their fit article is titled "How the Shoulder/Yoke Width Should Fit" — they use the terms interchangeably. Source: propercloth.com/reference/how-to-measure-a-shirt-yoke-width/, verified Aug 16 2026. Proper Cloth 17.10 should NOT have been discounted from the shoulder cluster. What DOES still stand: Black Lapel 17.25 is a transcription of Suitsupply, not independent; and a shirt shoulder is not a jacket shoulder.

• UNIT INCONSISTENCY IS WORSE THAN RECORDED. The workbook frames half-measure vs circumference as a difference BETWEEN generations (Plano 46.5 vs Feb 18 96). This shirt profile shows it varies WITHIN one generation: "Chest width" 113 cm can only be a circumference (a half-measure would imply a 226 cm chest), while Plano "Waist width" 46.5 cm appears to be a half-measure. The convention must be resolved FIELD BY FIELD, not by date.

• ASYMMETRY DISAGREEMENT BETWEEN TWO SUITSUPPLY PROFILES: this shirt drops BOTH shoulders equally (-1.0 / -1.0) while the jacket profile drops right -1.0 and left -0.5. Same brand, same store. One of them is wrong.

• Base size 15 here is independently corroborated by Charles Tyrwhitt (15 collar from Feb 2025) and Proper Cloth (15.00-15.50). The fulfilment emails call it "Size 38" — that is the same thing, a 38 cm collar.

SHIRT PROFILE — CORRECTED TARGETS FROM REAL WEAR, Aug 13 2026

- Owner alteration list for a re-order, against the as-built 2025 Tailored Fit profile:

SHOULDER WIDTH: as built 46.5 cm (18.31 in). Take in AT LEAST 0.5 in -> 45.2 cm (17.81 in) OR NARROWER. The +0.5 adjustment made at the fitting was in the wrong direction.

CHEST WIDTH: as built 113 cm (44.49 in). Take in about 1 in -> approx 110.5 cm (43.5 in). The +2.0 adjustment made at the fitting was roughly double what was wanted.

WAIST: no baseline published. Take in a good 1 in.

SLEEVE LENGTH: no baseline published. SHORTEN by 1 to 1.5 in. Largest single error.

COLLAR 40 cm and CUFF 24.5 cm: no complaint reported. Leave as built.

CORRECTION — MY EARLIER CHALLENGE TO THE BLACK LAPEL SHIRT VERDICT IS WITHDRAWN

- Earlier in this session the workbook note argued that the Black Lapel shirt shoulder of 18.00 in looked DEFENSIBLE, because Suitsupply's own SHIRT profile read 18.31 in and the original condemnation had compared it against the JACKET figure of 17.13 in. That challenge was recorded as "challenged, not overturned", pending a try-on.

- The try-on has now happened and it goes the other way. Suitsupply's 18.31 in shirt shoulder is TOO WIDE for this body - the owner wants at least 0.5 in taken out of it. The corrected shirt-shoulder target is 17.81 in or narrower, which sits BELOW the Black Lapel 18.00 in.

- THEREFORE: the original "DO NOT ORDER the Black Lapel shirt" verdict STANDS. It was right. The reasoning behind it was imperfect - it compared across garment classes - but the conclusion was correct, and 18.00 in is wider than this body wants in a shirt.

- What survives from the challenge: shirt and jacket shoulders are still NOT directly comparable, and a shirt shoulder does sit above a jacket shoulder. The corrected shirt target of about 17.8 in sits roughly 0.7 in above the jacket 17.13 in - real drop, but far less than the 1.2 in Suitsupply built in.

WHERE THE SHOULDER NUMBER NOW SITS ACROSS FOUR SOURCES

Suitsupply JACKET (locked, correct): 43.5 cm / 17.13 in

Proper Cloth yoke, Mar 2026 (working): 17.10 in [seam-to-seam, measured FLAT/straight across, garment; +/-0.25 in sewing tolerance]

Hangrr body measurement: 17.2 in

Suitsupply SHIRT as built (TOO WIDE): 46.5 cm / 18.31 in

Suitsupply SHIRT corrected target: approx 45.2 cm / 17.81 in or narrower

Black Lapel shirt (DO NOT ORDER): 18.00 in - above the corrected target

SUITSUPPLY FULL MEASUREMENTS IN INCHES — CAPTURED Aug 16, 2026. See the dedicated "SS MASTER — Full Measurements" tab for the complete field list of all three garments.

The unit warnings above are now RESOLVED, not open: width fields are HALF / FLAT, length fields are DIRECT. Adjustment counts confirm the captures are the CURRENT profiles (jacket 13, trousers 7, waistcoat 3 — all exact).

CORRECTION to the trouser rows above: the annotations reading "was -0.5 / 25.5 cm" on upper leg, lower leg and foot opening imply real changes at the Feb 18 revision. They are NOT changes. In a common convention those four widths are identical across both generations. Only the inside leg changed (-1.0 cm).

CORRECTION to the Black Lapel note above: "SS = Suitsupply, confirm before treating as an independent measuring session" is now CONFIRMED and the answer is that it is NOT independent. Jacket chest matches to 0.0 in.

NEW FIELDS never previously captured — jacket: chest, sleeve length L/R, back width, vent length, bicep, sleeve opening, front panel width, collar width, armhole. Trousers: seat width, front rise, back rise, hip width, crotch. Waistcoat: waist, hip, length, and six dropdowns.

STILL OPEN: trouser seat / hip / crotch publish no number (all dropdowns reading "Standard"), and the jacket Skirt value does not reconcile with the earlier Feb 18 capture (-0.2 in vs -1.0 cm on file).

*** YOKE WIDTH vs SHOULDER WIDTH — DEFINITION RESOLVED, Aug 16, 2026 (primary source) ***

QUESTION: is "yoke width" the same as "shoulder width"? For a SHIRT, at Proper Cloth: yes — same two endpoints.

Proper Cloth verbatim: "Button up the shirt and spread the shirt out on its front. Measure for the point where the yoke meets the sleeve, straight across, to the same point on the other side."

Tolerance, Proper Cloth verbatim: "We consider a tolerance of +0.25” to -0.25” acceptable for the Yoke Width dimension."

Source: https://propercloth.com/reference/how-to-measure-a-shirt-yoke-width/ — fetched and read Aug 16, 2026.

WHAT THIS CORRECTS:

• The note above claiming PC "yoke" measures the yoke PANEL rather than seam-to-seam was wrong, and the discount it applied to the 17.10 figure is withdrawn.

THREE QUALIFIERS THAT DO SURVIVE:

1. STRAIGHT ACROSS vs OVER THE SHOULDER. Proper Cloth measures a flat CHORD on a laid-out garment. Other makers measure the same endpoints but follow the curve over the top of the shoulders — Gambert: "from the outside seam, where the yoke joins the sleeve, across the top of the shoulders (below the collar) to the opposite side"; The Custom Shop: "taken directly across the top of the shoulder". Over-the-curve always reads LARGER than the flat chord. Same field name, different number.

2. A SHIRT SHOULDER IS NOT A JACKET SHOULDER. Suitsupply's own account proves it: shirt profile 18.31 in vs jacket 17.13 in, same body, same store.

3. THE CLUSTER IS PRECISE ONLY TO ABOUT HALF AN INCH. This workbook celebrates "four brands inside 0.15 in". Proper Cloth's stated sewing tolerance on that very dimension is +/-0.25 in — so a delivered 17.10 shirt is legitimately anywhere from 16.85 to 17.35. The agreement band is NARROWER THAN THE NOISE FLOOR of one of its own members. Treat roughly 17.2 as the shoulder figure; do not defend the second decimal.

CONNECTION TO THE SUITSUPPLY MEASURING-POINT AUDIT (same day, same class of error): "upper leg width" was assumed to mean thigh-at-the-crotch and does not; "yoke width" was assumed NOT to mean shoulder width and does. Both were assumptions about measuring points, made without reading the definition. Read the definition.

APPOSTA ADDED Aug 16, 2026 — Cotton-Bamboo Poplin shirt, 3 Jul 2025, SHOULDER 18 IN (owner-confirmed). Measuring point UNREAD; Apposta field definitions have never been captured. Sits with Black Lapel 18.00 and Suitsupply shirt 18.31 in the superseded wide-shoulder cohort, ABOVE the corrected shirt target of about 17.8 or narrower and well above the Proper Cloth 17.1 that fits.

WEAR VERDICT ADDED Aug 16, 2026 — the APPOSTA shirt at 18 in is WEARABLE per the owner, and NOT as big as the Suitsupply shirts (18.31, judged too full). First fit record for that garment. CONSEQUENCE: a garment reading 18 is confirmed wearable, which sits awkwardly against the Black Lapel 18.00 DO NOT ORDER verdict reaffirmed earlier today. Conventions are unverified on both, so neither is resolved — see the full note on the "New Brands — Alex Crane etc" tab.

*** OLIVER WICKS JACKET — LENGTH WAS ALTERED. Owner, Aug 16, 2026. ***

Owner: "the oliver wicks jacket had to be lengthened. it was too short, so i really need to make sure it matches suit supply all the way around."

THIS CONVERTS A PENDING CHANGE INTO A PROVEN DEFECT. Jacket length +5 cm has been sitting in Oliver Wicks' pending column, unapplied, since before Nov 2025. The delivered garment was TOO SHORT and had to be lengthened after the fact.

AS BUILT: Oliver Wicks jacket length 72.4 cm = 28.50 in.

SUITSUPPLY REFERENCE (the locked master): jacket length 29.4 in = 74.68 cm. Front length 31.2 in = 79.25 cm.

GAP: 2.28 cm / 0.90 in SHORT of Suitsupply. The queued +5 cm would take it to 77.4 cm = 30.47 in — which OVERSHOOTS Suitsupply by 2.72 cm / 1.07 in.

SO THE QUEUED +5 CM IS NOT THE RIGHT NUMBER EITHER. To match Suitsupply the correction is +2.3 CM, not +5.

CAUTION BEFORE ACTING ON THAT: Oliver Wicks and Suitsupply measure jacket length from unstated points, and this session found SIX measuring-point errors. Confirm both definitions, or measure the two jackets flat together, before ordering to +2.3.

"MATCH SUITSUPPLY ALL THE WAY AROUND" — the full delta, Oliver Wicks as built vs the Suitsupply reference:

Jacket length OW 72.4 cm (28.50 in) vs SS 74.68 cm (29.40 in) -> OW is 0.90 in SHORT [confirmed too short in wear]

Shoulder OW 17.87 in vs SS 17.13 in -> OW is 0.74 in WIDE [-1 cm queued, never applied]

Biceps OW 37 cm (14.57 in) vs SS 39.62 cm (15.60 in) -> OW is 1.03 in TIGHT [+1.5 cm queued, never applied]

Sleeve length OW 60.3 cm (23.74 in) vs SS 61.98 cm (24.40 in) -> OW is 0.66 in SHORT [no pending change recorded]

Chest OW 106.4 cm (41.89 in) vs SS 101.6 cm (40.00 in) -> OW is 1.89 in FULL [no pending change recorded]

EVERY DIMENSION IS OFF, AND TWO OF THEM HAVE NO PENDING CHANGE AT ALL — sleeve length and chest. The queued list is incomplete, not merely unapplied.

THE CHEST IS THE BIGGEST SINGLE GAP at 1.89 in, and it points the opposite way to the length: the jacket is too FULL in the chest and too SHORT in the body.

DO NOT ORDER FROM OLIVER WICKS UNTIL THE FULL SET IS REBUILT AGAINST SUITSUPPLY. Applying the three queued changes alone would still leave the chest 1.89 in full, the sleeve 0.66 in short, and would overshoot the length by 1.07 in.

Upper Body Block

UPPER BODY BLOCK — owner-supplied, Aug 13, 2026, taken at 153 lb

BODY measurements. Compare only against other body figures — garment specs carry ease on top of these.

WHAT THE CHEST NUMBER SETTLES

- 38 in twice, at 157 lb and at 153 lb. Chest did not move across the whole stable period. Any jacket or shirt

chest complaint in this workbook is therefore a GARMENT problem, never a body-change problem.

- Cross-check against the chest bracket already established from wear:

Charles Tyrwhitt Extra Slim — static fit fine, movement constrained (the tight bound)

Proper Cloth Mar 2026 — about 42.4 in finished (the working middle, roughly 4.4 in of ease)

Suitsupply shirt — about 44.5 in finished, judged TOO FULL (roughly 6.5 in of ease)

- So the workable shirt ease band is roughly 4 to 4.5 in over a 38 in chest. Above about 6 in reads as too full.

- CAUTION: the Charles Tyrwhitt constraint was diagnosed as RANGE OF MOTION — back width and armhole — NOT chest

girth. Do not widen the chest to fix it. That correction is already on record and still stands.

BICEP 12 IN — a new number that touches two open items

- OLIVER WICKS has a queued, never-applied change of BICEPS +1.5 cm against a garment biceps of 37 cm (14.57 in).

Against a 12 in body that is about 2.6 in of ease, going to about 3.2 in if applied. Neither is tight on paper.

WORTH QUESTIONING whether that queued change was ever justified, or whether it was chasing a different problem

— the same jacket also has shoulders -1 cm and length +5 cm queued, and shoulders were the known fault.

- HANGRR velvet blazer, SLIM, recorded as TOO TIGHT IN THE ARMS. With a 12 in bicep, a slim sleeve that binds

means the Hangrr SLIM sleeve is cut genuinely narrow, not that the arm is large. The existing recommendation

to use REGULAR next time is sound and is now supported by a body number.

STILL MISSING FROM THE UPPER BLOCK — these are the remaining gaps

- SHOULDER, seam to seam across the back. THE BIGGEST ONE. Six sources currently span 17.10 to 18.31 in and

every one of them is a GARMENT figure. There is no body shoulder measurement anywhere in this project.

- SLEEVE LENGTH, centre back neck to wrist. Sartoro locked a 24.25-24.75 in target in Jun 2025 from garments only.

- NECK. The Charles Tyrwhitt collar went 16 to 15 in four months and has never been checked against a tape.

- BACK WIDTH. Directly implicated in the CT range-of-motion problem and never measured.

- ARM LENGTH and WRIST, if a jacket is ever ordered from a new maker.

Lower Body Block

LOWER BODY BLOCK — the measurements that explain every trouser in this workbook

Owner-supplied, Aug 13, 2026. These are BODY measurements, not garment measurements.

This is the first time the seat and thigh have been recorded anywhere in the project.

THE DROP — this is the whole story

Trouser blocks are drafted around the gap between waist and seat. A typical men's ready-to-wear trouser assumes

a seat roughly 8 to 10 inches larger than the waist. (General drafting convention — NOT a verified figure from any

brand in this workbook. Treat as indicative, and confirm against a real size chart before acting on it.)

HIS DROP IS ABOUT +4 INCHES. THE INDUSTRY ASSUMES +8 TO +10. That single fact predicts every complaint in this

workbook: any trouser bought to fit the waist arrives several inches too large through the seat and thigh.

IT MATCHES THE FEB 2025 COMPLAINT WORD FOR WORD

Owner to Archer, Feb 25, 2025, before any of these numbers were known:

"They fit fine in the waist, but very baggy in the seat — too wide in the hips and rise is too long."

"And very billowy in the thighs — the thigh area is too large in circumference."

"So changing to a different size is not going to help."

- Waist fine, seat baggy, thigh billowy. That is exactly what a +4 drop body reports when handed a +9 drop trouser.

- His instinct that a different SIZE would not fix it was CORRECT, and now provably so. Sizing down would have

fixed the seat and thigh only by making the waist unwearable. The block is wrong, not the size.

THE TWO-WAIST PROBLEM — a likely source of maker error

- Trousers are worn at just under 31 in.

- The Apr 8, 2025 self-measurement records BELLY BUTTON at 33 in and hips at 36 in.

- So the natural waist sits about 2 inches ABOVE the wear point. A maker who measures the natural waist and

cuts to it produces a trouser about 2 inches too big at the waist BEFORE the seat and thigh problems.

- ALWAYS SPECIFY: 31 in at the wear point, not the natural waist. State it explicitly on every future order.

- The 36 in hips (Apr 2025, at 157 lb) versus 35 in seat (Aug 2026, at about 150 lb) is a 1 in reduction and is

consistent with the recorded weight change. Both are plausible; the newer figure is the working number.

WHAT THIS CONFIRMS AND WHAT IT OVERTURNS

CONFIRMS — Trav at Archer had it right, Feb 25, 2025: "his waist is a size 30/29.5 but he needs the BODY of the

pants to be a size 28 — reduces the seat, thigh, rise, knee and leg opening." That is the +4 drop, described in

sizing language a year before the measurements existed. The Archer diagnosis is now independently corroborated.

CONFIRMS — the three-brand waist ladder is real and reconciled:

Suitsupply base 28 (the BODY of the trouser) · Kato 29 (labelled RTW, vanity-sized) · Archer 30 (raw WAIST).

The owner independently states the vanity-size mapping lands "right at about 29", which is precisely the

Kato size chosen twice. Two independent sources, same answer.

QUALIFIES — Trav's alteration spec of MINUS 1 IN seat and MINUS 1.5 IN thigh was almost certainly a conservative

first pass on one garment, not the full correction. Against a 4-6 in seat surplus, 1 in is a start. Do not treat

those two numbers as the finished pattern. NOT YET VERIFIED — the altered pair was never re-measured in writing.

WHAT TO DO WITH THIS

1. GIVE THESE THREE NUMBERS TO EVERY TROUSER MAKER: waist 31 at wear point, seat 35, thigh 19. Seat and thigh

are the governing dimensions. The waist is the one thing that has never been wrong.

2. STOP BUYING READY-TO-WEAR TROUSERS EXPECTING THEM TO FIT. Eleven orphan trousers are in this workbook. A

+4 drop body is not what RTW is drafted for, and no size will fix it.

3. SARTORO AND SUITSUPPLY ALREADY HANDLE THIS — both are made to measure and both trouser specs are described

in the workbook as settled ("chiselled in stone" at Sartoro order 6297; Suitsupply locked as the reference).

Those two are working precisely because the block was cut to him.

4. FOR KATO, size 29 is correct and confirmed twice — but it is READY TO WEAR, so expect seat and thigh surplus

even at the right waist. Worth a wear-log entry: does the Pen Slim actually fit the seat, or is it tolerated?

5. HANGRR pants "a tad long, try 39.5 in" is a LENGTH note and is unaffected by any of this.

STILL UNMEASURED — would complete the block

- RISE. Complained about twice ("rise is too long") and never measured. This is now the single most valuable

missing lower-body number.

- INSEAM. Inferred only: Archer 30/31 implies 31; Kato "no hemming needed" twice implies the stock inseam works.

- KNEE and LEG OPENING. Trav set a floor of 6.75 in on the leg opening; the actual preferred figure is unknown.

RISE — RESOLVED, AND IT IS NOT A PROBLEM. Owner-supplied Aug 13, 2026.

- Dress trouser rise typically runs 9-10 in front and 14-15 in back, averaging about 9.5 / 14.5.

- OWNER: "I wear both equally well, I just wear the higher rises higher."

- At 10 / 15 the waistband "hits right at the top of hip bones, about where they should be."

- So rise is a TOLERANCE, not a constraint. It is the ONLY lower-body dimension with genuine slack in it. Every

other dimension — seat, thigh, waist position — is tight and unforgiving.

THIS OVERTURNS A CONCLUSION RECORDED EARLIER TODAY

- The Lower Body Block tab was written listing RISE as "the single most valuable missing lower-body number,"

on the strength of the Feb 2025 Archer complaint "rise is too long." THAT WAS WRONG. Rise is fine.

- The rise complaint was almost certainly a SYMPTOM OF THE SEAT SURPLUS, not an independent fault. A trouser

cut 4-6 in too large through the seat cannot sit up on the body — it drops, and the crotch hangs low. The

wearer experiences that as a long rise even when the drafted rise is correct.

- CONSEQUENCE: the Archer Blue Cords had TWO faults, not three. Seat and thigh. Fix those and the rise

complaint should disappear on its own. Do NOT ask any maker to shorten the rise — that would break a

dimension that currently works.

- STATUS: reasoned, NOT verified. The clean test is to measure the rise on the returned Archer cords, or on a

pair that fits. If a well-fitting pair measures inside 9-10 / 14-15, this is confirmed.

THE +5 INCH DIFFERENTIAL IS ITSELF EVIDENCE

- Both figures he names carry the same front-to-back gap: 9.5 to 14.5, and 10 to 15. A standard +5 in.

- A fuller seat normally requires MORE back rise than standard to cover it. He needs no extra — which is an

independent corroboration of the 35 in seat and the flat +4 drop. Two different measurements, same conclusion.

THE WAIST POSITION IS NOW PINNED PRECISELY

- At a 10 / 15 rise the band sits at the TOP OF THE HIP BONES. That is the point where the waist measures just

under 31 in. The wear point is now defined anatomically, not just numerically.

- This is what to tell a maker: 31 in AT THE TOP OF THE HIP BONES. Not the natural waist, which is 33 in at the

belly button and about 2 in higher up the body.

THE LOWER BODY BLOCK IS NOW ESSENTIALLY COMPLETE

Waist 31 at top of hip bones · Seat 35 · Thigh 19 · Rise front 9-10, back 14-15 · Inseam about 31 (Archer 30/31,

and Kato stock inseam accepted twice with "no hemming needed") · Leg opening floor 6.75 per Trav.

STILL GENUINELY UNKNOWN: knee circumference, and the preferred leg opening above the 6.75 floor.

LEG AND TAPER — owner-supplied Aug 13, 2026. The block is now complete.   True

BODY   Value   Note

Knee   14 in

Calf   13 in   SMALLER than the knee. Genuinely slim through the lower leg.

Ankle   about 8 in

Leg opening — acceptable   up to 14 / 14.25 in

Leg opening — REJECTED   15 in and above   Owner: "looks like bell bottoms."

TRAV'S 6.75 IS RESOLVED — IT WAS A FLAT MEASURE, AND IT MATCHES EXACTLY   True

- Archer, Feb 27 2025: "I wouldn't go less than 6.75 inches." Recorded in this workbook as a leg-opening floor

with the UNIT UNCONFIRMED — flat/half measure or full circumference was never established.

- 6.75 x 2 = 13.5 in. That is EXACTLY the preferred leg opening stated independently, eighteen months later,

with no knowledge of the Archer figure.

- CONFIRMED: Trav quoted a FLAT (half) measure. His floor and the owner's preference are the same number.

- This matters beyond Archer. It is a worked example of the half-measure vs circumference ambiguity that is

STILL OPEN on the Suitsupply waist figures (Plano 46.5 vs Feb 18 96; trousers 41 vs 82). Same trap, and here

it resolved cleanly at exactly 2x. Do not assume it resolves the same way for Suitsupply — but do check.

WHY 15 IN LOOKS WRONG — the owner's reasoning is correct and now quantified   True

- Calf 13 in, ankle 8 in. There is very little leg to fill a wide hem.

- A 13.5 in opening over an 8 in ankle already gives about 5.5 in of clearance — enough to clear the foot and

break on the shoe without collapsing around the leg.

- At 15 in the hem is nearly DOUBLE the ankle. On a slim calf with a US 9-10 shoe there is no visual mass at the

bottom to balance it, so the leg reads as flared. His own explanation, and the measurements support it.

- The preferred opening of 13.5 is essentially EQUAL to the body knee of 14. The trouser runs close to straight

visually from the knee down, with the taper carried in the garment ease rather than in the silhouette.

RISE — PREFERENCE NOW SEPARATE FROM TOLERANCE   True

- The Suitsupply trousers he actually likes to wear measure about 9.25 front / 14 back. Owner says "I think" —

TREAT AS UNVERIFIED until measured on the garment.

- That sits at the LOW end of the 9-10 / 14-15 tolerance recorded earlier, and its differential is +4.75 rather

than the +5 he quoted generally.

- So the record now distinguishes two things it previously conflated:

TOLERANCE — front 9-10, back 14-15. All wearable.

PREFERENCE — about 9.25 / 14, evidenced by the trousers from the locked reference brand that he chooses to

wear. This is the number to give a maker; the range is what to accept without complaint.

- Consistent with "I wear the higher rises higher": a 10/15 is worn up at the hip bones, a 9.25/14 sits slightly

lower. Both work. Neither is a fault.

THE COMPLETE TROUSER SPEC — hand this to any maker   True

Waist 31 at the TOP OF THE HIP BONES (not the 33 natural waist) · Seat 35 · Thigh 19 · Knee 14 · Calf 13 ·

Ankle 8 · Rise about 9.25 front / 14 back (tolerance 9-10 / 14-15) · Inseam about 31 · LEG OPENING 13.5,

never above 14.25.

These are BODY measurements except the leg opening and rise, which are garment figures. State that explicitly —

the workbook has already been bitten once by an unstated measurement convention.

*** WAIST CONFLICT — OPENED Aug 13, 2026, NOT YET RESOLVED. READ BEFORE USING ANY WAIST FIGURE. ***

Owner supplied a full torso set and immediately flagged the problem himself: "maybe my 31 is a bit of a misnomer. I may need to re-measure myself."

THE TWO NUMBERS THAT DISAGREE

- STATED EARLIER TODAY: "my actual waist where I wear my pants measures just under 31."

- MEASURED (tape, at 153 lb): LOW WAIST 33. Belly button 33.5. Just under ribcage 31.5.

- That is a 2 in disagreement at the same anatomical point. Both cannot be a body measurement.

MOST LIKELY EXPLANATION — garment versus body

- 31 is probably a TROUSER figure, not a body figure: either the waistband measurement of trousers he owns, or

a label-adjusted estimate. He said in the same breath that vanity sizing "cuts right at about 29", so he is

clearly reasoning from labels.

- A body of 33 wearing trousers labelled 29-30 implies about 3-4 in of vanity sizing. That is high but entirely

normal for the brands in this workbook.

- A waistband CAN measure under the relaxed body figure — soft tissue compresses under a band. So 33 body in a

31-32 band is physically consistent. NOT PROVEN. This is the leading hypothesis, nothing more.

A SELF-REPORT PATTERN WORTH NOTING — IT NOW CUTS BOTH WAYS

- To Archer, Feb 2025: "about 6 feet tall, but like 165 lbs." Actual: 5 ft 10, 153.9 lb the next day. Rounded UP.

- To Sartoro, Apr 2025: "size 10" shoe. Actual bracket 9-9.5. Rounded UP.

- Waist, Aug 2026: stated "just under 31." Tape says 33. Rounded DOWN.

- Height, weight and shoe size are rounded up; waist is rounded down. Both directions are the flattering one.

- THIS IS NOT A CRITICISM, IT IS A DATA-HANDLING RULE, and it is the owner's own standing instruction applied to

himself: MEASURED BEATS STATED, every time, including when the source is him. He caught this one unprompted.

WHAT THIS CHANGES — and what it does NOT

- THE SEAT AND THIGH CONCLUSIONS SURVIVE INTACT, AND GET STRONGER.

Old reading: waist 31, seat 35, drop +4 versus an industry +8 to +10.

New reading: waist 33, seat 35, DROP +2. Even flatter than first calculated.

A ready-to-wear trouser bought for a 33 waist arrives with roughly a 42 in seat. His is 35. Surplus about 7 in

— larger than the 4-6 in previously estimated. Every "baggy in the seat" complaint is now MORE explicable.

- THE LEG BLOCK IS UNAFFECTED. Knee, calf, ankle, leg opening, rise and inseam are all independent of the waist

point and remain as recorded. Trav's 6.75 flat-measure resolution also stands.

- WHAT IS NOW UNSAFE TO USE: the figure "31 at the top of the hip bones" written into the complete trouser spec

earlier today. DO NOT hand that to a maker until re-measured. Everything else in that spec holds.

THE RE-MEASURE PROTOCOL — do this once and the block is closed for good

1. Bare skin or a thin shirt only. Note which.

2. Stand relaxed, normal breathing, do not hold the stomach in. Tape snug but not compressing.

3. Measure at THREE points and label each: (a) top of the hip bones, where a 10/15 rise band sits; (b) belly

button; (c) just under the ribcage.

4. SEPARATELY, lay a pair of trousers that FIT flat and measure the waistband end to end, then double it. Record

that as a GARMENT figure. The gap between it and (a) is the true compression and vanity allowance.

5. Re-measure the SEAT at the fullest point too — the record currently holds 35 (Aug 2026) and 36 (Apr 2025).

6. Record current weight on the same day. The existing set is at 153 lb; he is now about 150.

*** LEG OPENING IS A FORMALITY LADDER — CONFIRMED BY OWNER Aug 14, 2026 ***

The hypothesis raised in the Wear Log was put to him and confirmed outright: "no, that is right on."

"I like jeans — more casual than suits — to have a smaller leg opening in general."

THE RULE: AS FORMALITY FALLS, THE LEG OPENING NARROWS. Roughly 14.25 in at the dress end down to 12 in at the

most casual. This is the opposite of the common assumption that casual trousers run wider, and it is consistent

across every figure now on record.

A NOTE ON WHY THIS IS NOT ABOUT SHOE SIZE

- His SNEAKERS are the BIGGEST shoes he owns (US 10-10.5) and they take the NARROWEST openings (12-13 in).

- His DRESS SHOES are the SMALLEST (US 9-9.5) and they take the WIDEST openings (13.5-14.25 in).

- So the relationship runs OPPOSITE to shoe mass. The driver is REGISTER AND SILHOUETTE, not visual balance

against the shoe.

- This refines his own earlier reasoning rather than contradicting it. "My size 9 or 10 shoes and skinny legs"

explains why 15 in is too wide ANYWHERE. The formality ladder explains where inside the acceptable range each

category sits. Both hold.

PRACTICAL CONSEQUENCE — the single-number spec was wrong

- The "COMPLETE TROUSER SPEC" written earlier today carries "LEG OPENING 13.5, never above 14.25." That is

correct for DRESS TROUSERS ONLY and must not be handed to a casual maker.

- CORRECTED: specify the register with the number. Dress 13.5 · jeans over boots 13 · casual with sneakers 12-13.

- Trav's Archer floor of 6.75 in flat (13.5 in) was quoted for CORDUROY TROUSERS — a mid-casual garment. It sits

at the dress end of the ladder, which is worth noting but not necessarily wrong for cords.

*** CHINOS — A CATEGORY THE WORKBOOK BARELY HAS ***

He names chinos as a live, worn category with a 12-13 in opening. The register does not reflect that:

- NO garment in this workbook is recorded as a CHINO.

- The closest candidates are the four ARCHER corduroy trousers, which are cords, not chinos.

- PROPER CLOTH order AC1811735 (Apr 12, 2025) is flagged as "CASUAL PANTS, separate pattern" and IS STILL UNREAD.

That is the single most likely place a chino record is hiding, and it also carries a separate trouser pattern

from Proper Cloth — which would be a second made-to-measure trouser block.

- ACTION: read AC1811735, and ask what chinos he owns. A whole casual-trouser category is effectively missing

while eleven orphan DRESS trousers sit recorded in detail.

ALSO UNCAPTURED: the NAKED & FAMOUS Super Guy leg opening at size 29. The Kato figure (13 in) is known and the

N&F one is not — worth pulling from their size chart, since four owned pairs sit in that fit.

*** LEG-OPENING LADDER — CORRECTED Aug 14, 2026. THE FORMALITY READING WAS WRONG. ***

Owner: "the cotton Sartoro pants are the exact cut and fit as the Sartoro dress pants and both have leg openings

of 12.75."

EVERY MEASURED LEG OPENING NOW ON RECORD:

Naked & Famous Super Guy — 12.5 in — SNEAKERS

Sartoro DRESS trousers — 12.75 in — dress shoes

Sartoro COTTON trousers — 12.75 in — sneakers (identical block to the dress pants)

Hiroshi Kato Pen Slim — 13.0 in — BOOTS

WHAT THIS OVERTURNS

- THE FORMALITY LADDER IS NOT SUPPORTED. It claimed openings NARROW as formality falls: dress 13.5-14.25, boots

13, sneakers 12-13. The measured numbers do not do that. His DRESS trousers are 12.75 and his JEANS are 13.0 — the jeans are WIDER, the opposite of the claimed direction.

- THE FOOTWEAR EXPLANATION SURVIVES, AND IT IS THE BETTER ONE. Ranked by the shoe rather than the garment:

Sneakers 12.5 (N&F) < dress shoes 12.75 (Sartoro dress) < boots 13.0 (Kato)

A boot shaft needs clearance; a sneaker needs least. That is physical and it matches every figure.

The Sartoro cotton pants at 12.75 are the exception that proves it — same block as the dress trousers, so the

opening did not move when the fabric and the register did.

- THE REAL RANGE IS 12.5 TO 13.0 IN — HALF AN INCH, ACROSS EVERYTHING HE OWNS AND LIKES. Far tighter than any

ladder. He essentially wears one leg opening.

*** AND ANOTHER STATED-VERSUS-MEASURED GAP ***

- STATED: "I like about a 13.5 inch leg opening, maybe up to 14, 14.25."

- MEASURED: NOT ONE GARMENT HE OWNS AND LIKES IS 13.5 IN OR WIDER. Every single one is 12.5-13.0.

- The stated figure is roughly 0.75-1.5 in wider than anything in his wardrobe. Same direction and same size of

error as the waist ("just under 31" against a measured 33).

- THE RULE HOLDS AGAIN: measured garments beat stated preferences. Give a maker 12.75 in, not 13.5 in.

- His judgement that 15 in "looks like bell bottoms" is still sound — it is simply even further from his real

numbers than it appeared.

SARTORO USES ONE TROUSER BLOCK FOR EVERYTHING

"The exact cut and fit as the Sartoro dress pants." Cotton and wool, casual and dress, all one pattern. This is

consistent with the trouser spec being "chiselled in stone" at order 6297 and means any Sartoro trouser

measurement applies to all nineteen of them regardless of fabric.

CORRECTION — EMINENCE PURPLE IS NOT AN ORPHAN. Owner: "I have the Eminence Purple jacket too." The Fabric Groups

tab and the Suits view list Eminence Purple Stretch Pants among the orphan trousers. There is a matching JACKET.

It is a COTTON group (Stretch = cotton), so Eminence Purple is a cotton jacket-and-trouser pairing. The jacket is

dated Mar 15, 2026 in the Sartoro Master notes — the newest sizing generation, with shoulder rotation and longer

SUPERSEDED Aug 16, 2026 — "TRUE ORPHAN COUNT DROPS AGAIN: Dark Grey Prince of Wales, Nickel Grey Bamboo, Suitsupply Light Blue" IS WRONG. It assumes every Stretch trouser has a Stretch jacket. Only TWO stretch/cotton jackets exist (Eminence Purple, Hudson Midnight Black). THE TRUE ORPHAN COUNT IS TEN. See Fabric Groups.

Weight & Fit Timeline

Weight & Fit Timeline — ~295 lb → 150 lb (SUPERSEDED IN PART; peak corrected Aug 14, 2026)

SUPERSEDED Aug 2026 by the scale-app data on the 'Weight Data (Scale App)' tab. The peak was 206.1 lb (Jul 26, 2024), not 180, and the loss finished in FEBRUARY 2025, not December 2025. The brand-by-brand mapping below is still useful, but the claim that the drift was caused by weight is wrong for every brand except the Sep–Oct 2024 Charles Tyrwhitt orders.

READ THIS TAB FIRST. Orange = cut to the heavier body. Yellow = cut mid-loss. Green = cut after weight stabilised, and therefore trustworthy today.

THE LOSS, AS MEASURED BY PROPER CLOTH

Proper Cloth reprints the full flat-garment pattern on every order, so it is the only continuous physical record of the change.

WHICH BODY EACH BRAND WAS CUT TO

WHAT THIS REFRAMES

• NOTHING IN THIS WORKBOOK WAS A PREFERENCE CHANGE. Every drifting measurement across five brands is one 30 lb weight loss showing up in five different measurement systems. The Proper Cloth ladder, the Black Lapel rebuild, the Charles Tyrwhitt collar drop, the alpha LARGE→SMALL move and the Oliver Wicks queued changes are all the same event.

• THE BODY HAS BEEN STABLE FOR EIGHT MONTHS. That is the important part. Anything measured from roughly December 2025 onward is still valid today, and the moving-target problem is over. Suitsupply (Plano), Black Lapel's Nov 7 rebuild, Charles Tyrwhitt Feb 2026, Hangrr and Proper Cloth Mar 2026 all agree with each other — five independent brands converging is strong evidence the current numbers are right.

• THE NECK WENT FIRST, THE TORSO WENT LATER. Collar had done 83% of its drop by Jul 2025 while the chest had done only 38%. Anything bought in mid-2025 may fit at the neck and be loose through the body.

THE SARTORO PROBLEM IS NOW THE HEADLINE

• 42 garments. 33 orders. $10,990. Fourteen months. ONE measurement profile, dated Jan 28, 2025, still cited on the final order in March 2026.

• That profile was taken at or near 180 lb. Sartoro is 61% of the garment count and the single largest spend in the wardrobe, and effectively all of it was cut to a body that is now 30 lb lighter.

• Sartoro publishes NO measurements in the customer account, so the damage cannot even be quantified from the data on hand. Getting that profile out of Sartoro support is now the highest-value open item in this project — ahead of the return PDF, ahead of the remaining order extractions.

A TENSION WORTH RESOLVING

• The Alterations tab records several early Sartoro jackets being LET OUT at the waist — made LARGER. During a 30 lb loss the expected alteration is taking garments IN. Either the direction in that note is wrong, or those jackets were cut too tight to begin with and the let-out was fixing a pattern error rather than tracking the body. Chris at Covenant Brothers did the work (Jan 27, 2026 calendar entry) and would know which.

WHAT TO DO WITH THE OVERSIZED GARMENTS

• Charles Tyrwhitt: $633.96 of shirts confirmed too big so far, and eight orders are still unread. Non-iron cotton shirts can be taken in at the side seams and the collar cannot — a 16 collar cannot become a 15. The two alpha LARGE linen shirts are the furthest gone.

• Tailored jackets and trousers are the opposite: a good tailor can take in a waist and a seat considerably. Chris is already doing this work. The Sartoro pieces are worth assessing garment by garment rather than written off.

CORRECTION LOG — Aug 2026

• The 'Sartoro problem' as originally written on this tab (42 garments frozen to one Jan 28, 2025 profile) was WRONG. It was inferred from the order-email metadata, which never updated its profile date even though the underlying sizing changed three times. Owner-supplied garment list corrected it.

• The 18″ shoulder is now confirmed as Sartoro's OLD spec — matching Black Lapel (18.00) and Proper Cloth's Jan 2025 yoke (17.90). Four brands independently recorded the same pre-loss shoulder.

• A SECOND fit defect is now documented alongside the width problem: SHOULDER ROTATION (seam angle / posture). Sartoro corrected it around Feb 2026 and Proper Cloth added 'Chest Fwd 1″' in Mar 2026 — two brands, same correction, six weeks apart. Neither is explained by weight.

DATED FIT EVENT ADDED Aug 14, 2026 — JULY 2025: MEDIUM ALREADY TOO BIG

Owner-confirmed: the Jul 2025 Banana Republic linen order was bought for himself in size M, found TOO BIG, and

given to his father-in-law. That converts a purchase record into a MEASURED FAILURE POINT on the alpha ladder.

THE M-TO-S CROSSOVER IS NOW DATED TO MID-2025, AND TWO BRANDS AGREE:

Jul 2025 Banana Republic M — TOO BIG (owner-confirmed failure)

Aug 2025 Paul James — cut him SMALL (independent, four weeks later)

WHICH MAKES CHARLES TYRWHITT ROUGHLY TEN MONTHS LATE

CT sold him MEDIUM linen in Apr 2025 and did not reach SMALL until Feb 2026. His body had already left Medium by

Jul 2025 at the latest. The workbook already recorded that brands "catch up to the same body at different

speeds" — this puts a number on the lag for the slowest one.

CAUTION: cut and fabric differ across these brands, so the lag is approximate, not a precise interval. What is

firm is the DIRECTION and the ORDER: Paul James and BR before CT, by the better part of a year.

THE WARDROBE ITSELF HEDGES THE WEIGHT HISTORY — noted Aug 14, 2026

Owner: the too-big Charles Tyrwhitt shirts are "boxed up in storage in case I ever put weight back on."

~295 lb (~2021, owner-stated) -> 206.1 (Jul 26, 2024) -> 153.9 (Feb 26, 2025) -> ~150 now. About 145 lb down in total.

He has not disposed of the pre-loss wardrobe. That is a behavioural fact about CONFIDENCE IN THE NEW BODY, and

it sits alongside the documented snug-preference migration — he is dressing tighter while keeping the larger

sizes in reserve. The two are not contradictory; one is preference, the other is insurance.

IMPLICATION: "too big" in this workbook means DOES NOT FIT TODAY. It never means disposed of.

*** MAJOR CORRECTION Aug 14, 2026 — THE RECORDED PEAK WAS NOT THE PEAK ***

Owner: "I've come down way more than that. at my largest about 5 years ago, i was 295."

THE FULL ARC, as now understood:

~2021 ~295 lb owner-stated, no documentary record

May 2024 ~207 lb scale-app chart begins <- the app opens ~88 lb BELOW the peak

Jul 26 2024 206.1 lb EXACT, app tooltip

Feb 26 2025 153.9 lb EXACT

Aug 2026 ~150 lb stable ~18 months

TOTAL: about 145 lb down. The scale app captured only the LAST ~57 lb of it.

WHAT THIS INVALIDATES

Every prior statement in this workbook describing 206.1 lb as "the peak" is wrong. It is the peak OF THE APP

DATA. Those cells have been corrected on this tab and on Weight Data (Scale App).

The earlier note that "the recalled figure of 180 understated the peak by about 26 lb" now reads very differently:

the recalled figure understated the LIFETIME peak by about 115 lb. He was recalling a mid-descent plateau, not a max.

THE THREE-FORCES MODEL NEEDS A FOURTH ENTRY, OR AT LEAST A LONGER TAIL

The "Why Things Changed" tab explains fit anomalies with: (1) real weight change Aug 2024-Feb 2025, (2) stale spec,

(3) deliberate loose-to-snug migration. Force (1) is now known to be the TAIL of a five-year change, not the whole

of it. Anything bought before mid-2024 — the Saks 40R tuxedo, the boxed Armani and Boss suits, the 18in shoulder

spec — belongs to a materially different body, and "stale spec" understates how stale.

THIS IS OWNER-STATED AND UNVERIFIED.

The 295 figure has no scale screenshot, medical record or photograph behind it, and this workbook has documented

four cases where stated figures drifted from measured ones — ALL of them in the flattering direction. Here the

drift, if any, would run the other way, which is a different psychology and probably more reliable. Even so:

record it as OWNER-STATED, approximate, and undated beyond "about five years ago". Do not convert ~295 into a

precise datum, and do not compute BMI, sizes or timelines from it as if it were measured.

WORTH ASKING: is there a scale app, doctor record or photo covering 2021-2024? It would turn the single largest

fact about this body from an anecdote into a record.

THE JACKET-SIZE LADDER — independent corroboration of the pre-2024 arc

Added Aug 14, 2026. See the Boxed Archive tab for detail.

48 (donated) -> 46 (donated) -> 42 (boxed) -> 40 (boxed) -> 36 (current Suitsupply base)

Twelve jacket sizes. This is the ONLY evidence in the workbook covering 2021-2024 — the scale app does not begin

until May 2024, roughly 88 lb below the stated peak. The ladder does not date the descent, but it confirms the

SHAPE of it independently of any recalled number.

The single dated point on the ladder is the Saks 50(40)R tuxedo, Mar 2023 — already flagged elsewhere as a stale spec.

ORDINAL ONLY: jacket sizing is not linear against weight and varies by maker. The sequence is solid; do not

convert the intervals into pounds.

Garment Inventory

Wardrobe Inventory — Sartoro · Suitsupply · Oliver Wicks · Black Lapel · Hangrr — jesse@jessncass.com

Source: order-detail screenshots from account.sartoro.co (33 orders), suitsupply.com (6), oliverwicks.com (1), account.blacklapel.com (2) and hangrr.com (2). Blank cells = detail not shown on the captured screen.